Planted five hefty trees for new client last fall (Magnolia virginiana). I didn't see the trees until they were on site. The foliage started about five-six feet from the ground.
Client loved the size, but wants more low screening. We have talked about "drop-crotching" or other means of somehow stimulating new leaves or shoots at or near the ground. Do you have any suggestions?
You're probably close to being right, LandArts, but I'll wait for a more hope-inspiring post.
The client wanted sweetbay, but was hoping for the 8' high, dense bush-looking form that can be found at nurseries in containers. What they got due to certain circumstances were 12-14' B&B brutes with a more mature form.
I don't know how to help you with the low growth. I just wanted to add that I like the tree for it's somewhat open habit as it matures-the tree has a "looseness'' to it that I find very appealing.
I am curious to see if someone has an answer for this.
All the sweetbays I've ever seen end up sending up sprouts and bottom shoots.
I would just give them time and possibly some fert or something to get them over the transplant shock
All the sweetbays I've ever seen end up sending up sprouts and bottom shoots.
I would just give them time and possibly some fert or something to get them over the transplant shock
i was just fixing to say that, they grow suckers from the roots and trunk, they will fill in on their own after a while, also you can get it somewhat thicker to shear off a half inch off each tip to break buds and get a thicker canopy, do that a few times a year and each time just knick the ends and the customer will be happy
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Matt Thompson
Thompson's Landscaping
Henderson, NC
I hate the thought of shearing or heading. I wonder if heading the tips would force low growth or just make the tops bushier, which would if anything give more shade to the low parts of the tree. I initially thought thinning would let a bit more light in to strike the bark low on the tree to stimulate shoots. Voodoo, your question may hold a possible solution to my problem (the client's problem). Reflective material, though gaudy, may just do the trick, in theory.
Anybody ever tried laying a reflective material like Mylar under a tree or shrub to increase the amount of light that reaches the lower branches?
Funny you should mention that, I just saw a planting today where the guy had done just that. He laid mylar as the weed barrier then around the shrubs left the stone away from the shrubs. The effect was... interesting as shiny silver really sticks out through brown stone.
Holy crap. Light from the sun is hotter after being reflected? Where does the extra energy come from?
If reflective ground cover would work to stimulate bud break on the lower scaffold branches, I would think the stuff could be removed soon after the new growth showed.
Tipping can be an effective way to thicken up a plant but I tried it for years on my sweet bay and it didn't help. Probably best used for naturalizing-it's an awkward plant in the suburban landscape. I love how the native trees flash the silver undersides of the leaves in the wind.
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