[Inspired]

I’m posting this in the “Soft” Section because I want the opinions of you tree people out there. I’m wondering what is the best way to mount a directional light (a spot light fixture) in a tree? I’ve been staying away from down lighting in trees because I’m not sure how to mount the light fixtures properly without damaging the trees.

Lighting people all have their opinions on what works best. I’ve seen metal straps, nylon straps, rubber bands, plastic ties, screws, staples and nails and all of them seem to have draw backs. Most of them end up inside the tree as the tree grows around them, including the wire.

So what do you tree people say?

[mdvaden]

Is this going to be low-voltage lighting?

[Inspired]

I don't know that it matters, line voltage or low voltage. You still have to fasten a light fixture so the light can be directed somewhere consistantly and you still have to secure the wire or conduit somehow.

Let me back up a little...

The idea of lights up in a tree is to provide an interesting effect on the ground. Some people like to use a lite-blue lense and call it "Moon Lighting" casting shadows a bit like a very full moon. Sometimes the idea is to focus your attention on a certain object like a sculpture or architectural element.

What I see a lot is deep scars, wiring and fixture mounts that get swallowed up by the tree or some sort of strange looking branch shape that lead me to believe the tree isn't exactly happy with the situation. It seems most lighting people use screws to mount the fixtures and staples to mount the wire, collect a check and leave. A couple years down the road the tree has reacted to the screws and staples. Maybe this isn't a problem but it worries me that the aluminum mounts, steel screws and copper wire will eventually harm the tree.

[PSUscaper]

I don't think the wires and screws are going to effect a mature tree. If you don't believe me, I'll start sending you pictures of tree houses that have been installed since I can remember on trees that look pretty healthy.

The key is to be upfront and explain that over time, the light may need to be adjusted or wires we ran if they get pulled.

If they want the lights in the tree, then most people are willing to take the small chance that it would cause damage.

On another note. If you were to say you wanted to wrap christmas lights around 2" cal trees, then that may be a problem.

As long as you are running the wires so they don't wrap around the tree in a circle and girdle it, I don't see any real problem.

[trees]

ditto PSU...

[mdvaden]

Ever hear of "spiking" trees?

If the hardware gets in the tree, and the lights are removed, there's a potential for saw damage or injury.

The mounting system may need to be tweaked occasionally, as mentioned earlier, or fastened in such a way that the swelling trunk pushes it outward with each year's worth of growth.

If it's not low voltage, there may be a code to follow - a local code.

If its low voltage, the consequences to people from damage to the wiring, conduit or fixtures are much different.

So there may be a lot that matters depending on the voltage.

My preference, would be something like a galvanized nail that's long enough to stay fastened, but short enough that the tree's growth can nudge it outward each year.

[Dollar Spot]

The reality is that anytime you puncture the bark or cambium layer of a tree it will do damage. Read Shigo's compartmentalization of trees and it will explain it all. Because the tree is damaged doesn't't mean that it will die it just simply means that it's damaged and not perfect.

Iv'e cut trees down with iron bars in them and the most bizarre thing was a scythe grown into a tree. Trees can take a lot of abuse.

I worked for Davey Tree and we use to install lightning protection in a tree that required drilling into the tree to anchor the ground wire. We damaged the tree by drilling into it to the tree but overall we protected the tree and prolonged its life. The other thing to look at is cableing and bracing of trees. You damage the bark but prolong the life of the tree by protecting it from wind and ice damage.

[klaaar]

I'd say nails, screws, bolts, etc rather than straps or any such thing that may choke or girdle the tree. Minimize the area of the cambium that must be damaged. Basically I agree with the other opinions.

[Inspired]

Originally posted by mdvaden
Ever hear of "spiking" trees?

If the hardware gets in the tree, and the lights are removed, there's a potential for saw damage or injury.

If it's not low voltage, there may be a code to follow - a local code.

If its low voltage, the consequences to people from damage to the wiring, conduit or fixtures are much different.

So there may be a lot that matters depending on the voltage.

Yes, you're right. In these cases, there is a difference. Honestly, I'm not sure if local codes cover line voltage tree lighting. With the exception of palms, conduit would be silly anyway given the tree will grow and change shape. I guess I was thinking about it from a tree damage perspective.

[FungusMudGrub]

I have never seen a mounting system that will be provide reliable long term holding power, yet not require adjustment every few years to avoid girdling the tree. I would lean towards really light-weight (no pun intended) fixtures and wide straps with some sort of buckle to periodically adjust them. Maybe the force of the growing tree would be enough to pull the straps gradually through the buckle, but that's probably too much to hope for.

[TrickyDick]

A client of ours had a bunch of lights installed last year with a system like Fungus mentioned. Seems like it will work fine but only in a situation where someone is actually going to maintain them.

[Inspired]

Maintnance is definately a key issue.

I guess I'll jump on the band wagon. I think I'll require a couple of periodic maint visits to check the trees and the lighting system. Maybe every 6 months.

[GLAN]

A lighting seminar I attended they were telling us to sell a maintenance contract.........$x go in in the spring and change all the bulbs.......get paid for the bulbs as part of the contract.......and evaluate the fixtures and reset positions.......

Downlighting was discussed.........the manufacturer was in favor of straps........This also coincided with the idea of the maintenance contract...........

So lets say you did an install for $4k 15 fixtures......15 bulbs...cost what? do a maintenance contract for 10% if the install or what ever...........If you installed a quality system with voltage regulators........how often will a bulb burn out?

Seemed to be a win, win situation.

Problem is.............selling that 15 fixture for $4k

and the manufacturer stated a lifetime guarantee on the fixtures for us only.........not the home owner