[Nek]

Anyone know the rough cost/survivability of relocating a 30', 8" Caliper Japanese Maple onsite???

[Paul]

My first question would be how was the tree maintained? Then how long do you have to prep the tree for transplanting? Lastly how are you looking at moving it?

[Bill Schwab]

Most of the Jap Maples prefer a spring dig, just about the time the buds begin to swell. Paul is absolutley right about maintenance, and this might be something that you will have to prepare for over 2 seasons by root pruning in preparation for the move.

There are companies who specialize in large caliper transplanting and some will even guarantee the survival rate. (Otto Daamgard used to move some very big trees and would warantee them. ) They claimed timing was crucial.

A good resource for you would be the Morton Arboretum in Glen Ellyn Illinois, they have a hot line where you can speak to an arborist, and I'm sure could turn you on to a resource in your area who could best diect if/how/when that tree could be moved. In any event, unless you are sure of the how's and whats, do not offer any guarantee, and if you want to sub the work out, I would suggest turning the entire contract/sale over to whoever is going to move the tree. Keep your company name off that paper, and, don't expect to make any money off that part of the job.
That basically dumps all the liability into that companies lap and leaves you in the clear. The older a tree is when you move it, the less likely it is to recover from the shock of the move.

At least that is most of the spin I have learned on large caliper transplants. There are probably other methods that work as well.

[jwholden]

Nek,

Survivablility is always a crap shoot. I have yet to lose a laceleaf maple that I have transplanted. I have a post on the site with a laceleaf I moved last year. Japanese Maples are almost on par with burning bush as far as survivability. Unfortunately, the older a tree gets the less it likes to be transplanted.

You could rent a large tracked skid steer for the day to move the ball. Have the recieving hole and root ball dug beforehand. Backfill with microrhizae, upstart, and some organic matter. Water the Maple well before digging and make sure you cut all roots cleanly. Finally, make sure you keep it well watered once moved.

Are you talking about a Bloodgood?

What kind of shape is the tree in now?

How is the digging where you are?

You probably know all of this already, but my .02.

[Nek]

Thanks for all the replies. I should add I was contemplating contracting a 96" tree spade for the job. The tree is in neglected condition, ie. never pruned, but has the awesome Jap Maple shape. I have a call in for the tree spade and I will keep you posted on the process. Thanks again.


Ken

[agla]

In my area a 96" tree spade on site moving job would cost a landscaper $900-$1,500 with no garanty (but these guys have a very good track record).

They prep the tree to move it, dig the hole to plant it in, and stake it. The best part is that the ball is totally supprted in the spade throughout the move. They hold the tree with the spade in the hole while they back fill it so that the ball usually remains tight and undisturbed. That is way better than burlapping and moving it in a bucket and then trying to set it gently in a hole.

[site]

I would water it for a week before you move it. I would also put microrizzae in the hole. I have also read about post transplant watering with compost tea. we have had really good luck with spaded trees. We hired a spade to move eleven trees varying from 5-8" in August (or they would have been cut down) Not even one leaf dropped.

[VoodooChile]

What are the advantages of Fall root-pruning for Spring transplant? Should the root pruning be done before or after leaf drop? How do I determine root balll size? Is it directly correlated to caliper, or also dependent on species?

I have many nice trees--Katsura, Red Buckeye, Serbian Spruce, Fringetree-- here on the homefront that I hope to move next Spring to a larger property, and remember John recommending Fall root-pruning in another thread. Will be hand-digging, and maintaining myself. No root pruning done since installed here, between 3-5 years.

[Bill Schwab]

Call a local nursery and axe them how they would go about moving each plant. There are some who have large caliper specimens that can probably help you. Wilsons Nuirsery in Hampshire Illinois probably can, and I believe D Hill could as well.

Klem is out of Barrington and have been in business since dirt was invented. They probably have a guy knowledgeable in the area of root pruning.

[site]

To answer V-C's questions- You should have 12" of root ball per caliper inch. If you root prune and have really good soil you could stretch it to 10" bit its risky. Fall root pruning for a spring dig will reduce transplant shock, and allow the tree to start growing new roots closer to the trunk. Lastly- For best results wait until the tree is dormant. Another tidbit- if you are hand digging trees too big to lift with a skid steer rent a lull. Most can lift 8-10,000lbs. They also have extending booms and stabilizer bars which come in really handy when you are trying to straighten a tree as you plant it.

[VoodooChile]

Good info guys. Thanks.

I know Spruce and Fringetrees have fibrous root-systems, and move easily. Katsura, Asian maples, and Buckeyes will be tougher.

The real challenge is gonna be a 20', 3" caliper Prunus mackii , Amur Chokecherry, but I have to take that with, cause its my 4 year old's birth tree, and there is no arguing with a four year old!

[Nek]

OK--- Two quotes came in for the move....$2600 and $4500.00. The ball is now in the clients court.

[site]

Are those prices for hand digging, or for a spade? You can get a 96" spade for a whole day for $2500. You can move a bunch of trees in a day.

[agla]

It sounds like "how much is it worth to you" pricing rather than a per tree rate. I wonder what the price is to move a Norway Maple.

[VoodooChile]

The best way to move a Norway Maple is to get out the chainsaw and cut it down!