[Helios]

Hi all-

A client has asked me to resod a front lawn (2025 SF) with Kentucky Bluegrass and I have a few questions/concerns. I don't get large sod jobs that often so I want to be sure I have the best approach for this project. Measure twice and cut once, right?

First, around here KBG sod is less than half the price of fescue. When I see a price differential that large it is enough to send up red flags. Does anyone else see that kind of price differential and should I really be pushing for fescue over KBG?

Second, I know July is not the optimal time for this type of installation, but Client took the liberty of spraying the existing turf/weeds with Roundup, so waiting for better weather is not an option. My plan is to till the existing lawn, add topsoil (to even the grade in low spots), peat and starter fert and re-till. Is peat a good amendment in this situation and is 4 CF per 500 SF sufficient? Also, is there a preferred starter fert for KBG sod? I am considering a 10-30-10 or 12-12-12.

Third, I know Bluegrass is going to require a good watering schedule. With that in mind I have developed a clear watering plan for the client with the hope the sod gets properly established and develops a solid root system. The proposed watering schedule is 30-45 minutes in the morning and evening daily for the first 10-14 days. Thereafter water 30-45 minutes in the morning for the 3rd and 4th weeks. Then, be sure the lawn gets approx 1/2" to 3/4" water twice a week. I plan on demonstrating for the client how to check the sod and how to water after install. The sod will get full sun most of the day and summer here can be brutal. Also, there is no irrigation system, so oscillating sprinklers will be used.

As for mowing, I plan to advise a cut height of 3" through August with the first cut 10-14 days after install and once a week thereafter. In the Fall and Spring mowing height can be reduced to 2".

As a final thought, the Roundup makes me a little nervous- I know it should be inert within a few days but I want to wait until there is absolutely no chance the stuff will harm the new sod. Anyone have a minimum waiting period for planting after Roundup?

Thanks,

Helios

[cutntrim]

Don't forget to roll it after you lay it. If it's hot, you might want to call in a water truck to give it a good soak immediately after you lay it. Thereafter, I tell clients to keep the sod moist, not drenched and not to cut it until it's rooted (they can pull on it to check).

I've never used peat as an amendment, I just order screened topsoil, then spread starter fert over the soil before laying the sod. The main thing is to get the sod down as soon as you can then water it as fast as you can. After that as long as they continue to water, it'll be fine. It's all about the water...

Oh, and when I use RoundUp I wait 2-3wks before using a soil conditioner to chew up the dead turf. Speaking of which, when you get into larger sod jobs a skidsteer with soil conditioner or harley rake is something to consider.

[TrickyDick]

Do a soil test- see if you need amendments. Peat is good if your soil is alkaline. If it's acid you will need to lime.

Bluegrass is cheaper because it spreads on runners and is much easier to cut into sheets not because of quality. Fescues grow in clumps so don't hold together as well. Best turf type depends on lots of factors.

July is fine as long as it gets watered well and doesn't sit around waiting to be laid. Don't till fert into soil- it isn't much help growing roots if the roots can't reach it. And definately use a high P low N fert.

[Helios]

Thanks for the info. I am going to call the extension office and see what the turn around time is on a soil test. I have a week or so (at least) before I will be laying the sod so I might get the test back in time. In the meantime, I checked the soil test summary for the county and the majority of the pH soil samples are 6.4 or above with a median of 6.9. Odds are the client's soil will be slightly acidic which argues against peat and for lime, but there is no way to be sure without the test and I hesitate to guess how much lime to apply without one. I think it will be worth the wait for the soil test and I'll know to do this first next time around and save some time.

I'm glad I found this site. By the time I get out there this client will have a good chance to go from having the worst (and I mean worst- neighbors walk by and just shake their heads) lawn on the block to one of the best. Thanks again for the help.

[Helios]

OK--- I got the results of the soil test for this project. The extension recommends 40 lbs of lime per 1000 sq. ft. The test results also show the P and K levels are low and to add 3-5 lbs of each per 1000 sq. ft. The test recommends 1-1.5 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. Here are my questions:

I have looked into types of lime- crushed, pelletized and prilled. It seems like pelletized or prilled lime would be easier to work with, but crushed lime will interact with the soil better. I plan on using a decent Earthway spreader. Are there advantages to pelletized/prilled lime other than ease of use? I don't mind being covered in dust and I hear crushed lime is more economical.

Second, I would like a second opinion on the fert issue. The extension recommends waiting until fall to put any fert down, and then a 10-10-10. The reasoning is that it is difficult to add P & K without adding nitrogen, and nitrogen this time of year benefits weeds more than KBG. Indeed, the extension says fall is the only time to add nitrogen for cool-season grasses such as KBG and tall fescue because adding nitrogen in the spring & summer helps weeds more than grass and increases the need for irrigation and thatch control.

I am on the fence about this as I was planning to add a low N - high P & K fert, i.e. 9-24-24 at the time of install. The extension's recommendations make sense to me, and I don't mind waiting till fall to fert if it will get better results. After all, who am I to question the extension's advice about growing KBG here in the Bluegrass State? That being said, I am still curious to know what the turf gurus around here think.

This project is just around the corner and I am fired up about making the worst (and I mean "neighbors shaking heads and pointing" worst) lawn on the street into the best. The utilities were marked yesterday and the client found several neighbors excitedly looking at the paint lines & flags. No pressure, right? Thanks in advance

[cutntrim]

I've always put a starter fert down at the time of the install. I spread the fert on the soil, then lay the sod. Honestly, it's all about the water. As long as they're on top of that it'll be o.k.

[TrickyDick]

There is no advantage to pelletized lime other than ease of use.

I always use a starter fert too but the reasoning for not doing it makes some sense. With sod your not worrying too much about weed growth so your probably fine either way.

Ditto on the water.