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04-18-2006, 10:51 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Mar 2006
USDA
Posts: 105
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Changing the composition of the soil?
Hey guys, I had a regional manager call me today to get some grass growing in about a 30x30' area of one of her condo complexes. Its kind of tricky, I need to get a good look at it again. From what I remember though it is a pretty shady area between two buildings and large pines on the third side which blocks the sun nearly all day.
From what I remember its a clay type of soil. I need to really make it look nice, because they are giving us all the "out of contract" work for now, and trying to get rid of the current LCO taking care of the property.
I was thinking of a light tilling, or a heavy aeration of the area (I think its pretty compacted) and bringing in a few yards of mushroom soil to till in/fill aeration holes and then laying down some seed. They know now is not the optimal time to overseed, but they need some grass there regardless.
Any ideas? I'm going to poke around to see if I have any pics of the area, but I don't believe I do.
Thanks ahead!
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-Chris
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04-18-2006, 12:00 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Mar 2006
USDA
Posts: 105
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Here is a picture circle in the area. The bad area is back by the light pole between the two trees. I have to head to the property and get some pics because she says water pools up in that area, so something will have to be done as far as a drain. Hopefully someone can help us with that!
Here is a pic:
http://www.precision-aquatics.com/ga...04/circles.jpg
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-Chris
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04-18-2006, 12:01 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Mar 2006
USDA
Posts: 105
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And NO we didnt do that to the poor trees =)!
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-Chris
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04-18-2006, 08:32 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
USDA Zone 6
Posts: 1,322
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What about artificial turf?
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04-18-2006, 08:53 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Dec 2005
USDA
Posts: 96
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Hey syzer,
I'm glad you posted that additional comment about not having done the trees. That was the first thing I noticed. That's horrible!!!
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04-18-2006, 10:01 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Monroe, NC
USDA Zone 10
Posts: 678
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Looks like somebody thought they were Crape Myrtles!!!
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04-18-2006, 10:14 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Mar 2006
USDA
Posts: 14
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I would be nervous to see a water way. I would cut the sod off and re sod first thought.
Maybe just kick it up with water and fert and sell the fall program. What kind of grass do they use there???
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will sharp
"to be and do your best"
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04-19-2006, 07:48 PM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Aug 2005
USDA
Posts: 275
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how is this??????
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We do it right the first time!
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04-19-2006, 11:34 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 237
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Aerate in two or three directions. Light topdressing for a good seed bed. Overseed and mulch (e.g. peat moss, hyrdo mulch, etc.).
With shade the customer has to understand that grass plants will be continually dying off since the grass can't photosynthesize (lack of light) to create any food for itself. Therefore in shady areas they must be committed to seeding regularly to maintain decent turf. If you're planting bunch type grasses (rye/fescue) then they'll never spread like blue grass, creeping bent grass and the such. Therefore where you seed is where you get grass. When it dies off you'll have to reseed and that's it.
Mow it high, water as needed, fertilize lightly, aerate once a year minimum (twice if they'll let you) and plan on seeding regularly. And, they should have lower expectations for the quality of the turf due to the shade. Add into that there is traffic along the walk which carries onto the grass (looks like high traffic area), any standing water reduces the health of the grass. If it's regularly wet or has standing water a surface drain and/or drain tile should be installed.
As for your title to the thread about changing the composition of the soil - you won't change the composition by lightly top dressing one time. Even changing the composition with a full tear out and new install is tough due to the volume of soil you'll need to affect change. You can aerate regularly and top dress regularly to incorporate the more organic soil into the top three inches of the lawn area. But realize that you run the risk over time when you top dress with a different soil type over what you have that you could create a perched water table which will only add to your drainage problems. We've topdressed for a seed bed - but we've avoided trying to "change" the soil composition. It generally involves an excavator to turn the soil to 12" plus, and lots of new material with rototillers. Even then the "experts" say that we're not really changing the soil composition or make up that dramatically - and could be destroying the soil profile while we're at it.
Last edited by Lawn Lad : 04-19-2006 at 11:37 PM.
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04-20-2006, 09:01 AM
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Whip
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Join Date: Feb 2004
USDA
Posts: 302
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First of all, whoever murdered those trees should be shot.
Secondly, Lawn Lad gives excellent advice. From the pic, it appears that the soil probably has the consistency of concrete. It actually looks like that over most of the turf.
Rather than trying to force turf to exist (poorly) in a low area with little light, what about extending a planting bed and add some groundcovers?
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04-20-2006, 08:55 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
USDA
Posts: 883
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As LL said, it'll be an ongoing battle between the turf and the trees. Remove one (or both) of the pines to the left, install a nice new garden bed with a tree that allows filtered light (birch maybe) then do all the stuff LL says to do...and remove the massacred trees while you're at it.
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04-21-2006, 06:24 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Mar 2006
USDA
Posts: 23
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Thanks for the input! I am syzers brother and partner, you guys noticed the trees I see LOL, how could you not? There are trees such as these all over these condominium fronts just as those are! Talk about an eye sore and a flat out crying shame! The company which I will leave nameless =) told the property manager they were "tree experts" and they came in and did that to about 50 or so trees. Sad indeed.
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