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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2005, 10:37 AM
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Matt

I beg to differ that seed requires less water than sod.

Seed needs to be kept moist....OK, maybe straw stays moist below the straw surface longer than out Peat Moss ( we cover with peat moss ) I would still think that it needs frequent watering through the day, every day for minimum 2 weeks.

Where as sod. I only need them to water most 2x a day, morning the longest and afternoon half the time as needed in the morning. And that is only for the first week, Then once a day the second week and then every other day regular watering.

Sod gets irrigation to a regular watering patern sooner than seed does.


Seed after that first 2 weeks.....You still need water every day, not all day long, but now you need longer watering and at least 2x a day to establish roots. After that you are doing the same watering for seed as for sod.
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:26 PM
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you only need to keep the top 1/4 " of soil moist, not wet for seed because our heavy clay soils will retain moisture for quite a long time.........sod needs to be wet through the root zone and undersoil. Once the seed gets growing, the roots will grow quick. With mainly roots and little soil in the sod you can get around here, not sure about elsewhere, it dries out much quicker requiring more water. Ive done it both ways and had to use considerably less water when seeding........this is still just my opinion from what i have witnessed while doing each method......


The main thing about watering is the type of soils you have.....again since our clay soils hold in moisture longer, you dont have to water as frequent. The soil i have seen on the local sod farms is far from typical soils you see elsewhere. Highly highly amended soils, and topsoils brought in from elsewhere. Real light and fluffy and dries out in no time. So quite often the amount of water you need for that sod is far more water than the undersoil can handle, so you end up with soupy mud under sod.

I think the farms here need major changes and attempt to grow grass in native soils to help match soil conditions and even out watering.
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Last edited by NCSULandscaper : 03-27-2005 at 12:31 PM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2005, 04:47 PM
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GLAN is an unknown quantity at this point
Yeah.....you have that red clay stuff, right?


Here's another thought.....The burden of watering on the owner.

When we describe the watering needs for sod or seed......You see this puzzled look on their face.....like, I'm not sure about keeping it moist all day?......so they opt for sod.......We have a grower that grows very nice Blue Grass and Blue/Fescue. Another plus........well for me anyway. The soil the sod is grown in is basicaly the same soil I am working with.


Oh and someone mentioned 18 month before the sod is sold....Not sure about that here. There is one grower that is having a hard time keeping up with demand, due to not having enough acerage......They have gone to using a nylon mesh layed on top of the soil prior to seeding it.....the grass grows within it and the mesh becomes part of the sod......They do this so they can sell it sooner and not wait for the roots to mesh nicely.......I have seen enough of this sod being used, not handled properly and failing. It's to young.

Last edited by GLAN : 03-27-2005 at 04:51 PM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2005, 07:20 AM
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I agree with all of the good reasons to use seed. But, sod has some very real benefits as well.

Sod is instantly out competing weed growth on well prepared loam. It is instant erosion control both from wind and water. Once it is laid, you are ready to collect and shift the burden of survival to the client unless you have a poorly written contract. And a heck of a lot of people have been waiting to move into their houses and just want all of the construction/landscaping people and their work to be complete so that they can go on with life.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2005, 08:41 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by GroundKprs
Some people are really missing the point here. I'm not trying to say everyone has to do it with seed. Only point that cannot be argued is that seed allows the best choice for any particular site. And even then, if you have enough lead time, you can specify the seed to a good sod farm and install exactly the perfect sod for the site.

But if a simple yard boy like me can learn enough to be able to seed a lawn on 6/22, start mowing it on 7/2, and have a children's birthday party on that lawn in late July, it would seem that people who consider seeding a distant second choice are just not open minded, or don't want to learn how to do it. I cannot have a Super Bowl field ready to play 28 days after seeding, like they did at New Orleans in the 70s, but 99% of the time my seeded job will look better than a next door sodded job within less than a year after installation.

Only time I ever had an erosion problem was the time I tested a small area with PennMulch - that washed away and adjacent straw was perfect (1"+ of rain in 15 min @ 6 DAS). I have seen a 100% slope seeded without any erosion (wheat, not turfgrass).

And I agree whole heartedly, client care after the seed hits the ground is a key ingredient of my success. But how many really communicate with a client? I like the client communication part of the biz - have even taught some to read the turf color change to regulate irrigation. Lady I met last summer thinks I'm a turf wizard; her lawn was dramatically better 10 days after we first met. I keep reminding her that she is the one who turned the irrigation off - I just told her that was the problem, LOL. But if they don't listen, I'm history to them. In time, the sincere clients will come to you. /QUOTE]



I completely agree with JIM

Only point that cannot be argued is that seed allows the best choice for any particular site.

THAT'S WHY SEED IS THE BEST CHOICE!!!!!!!!

Last edited by timturf : 03-31-2005 at 08:46 PM.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2005, 09:42 PM
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I have an opinion on seed vs. sod
if my customers will water the newly seeded lawn just as they do protecting their considerable investment. The seed will survive and do well. I can teach homeowners how to maintain their properly installed lawn just as the sod producers do. If they don't follow my instructions they will lose their lawn. I guarantee 75% germination on new construction (with the exception from late may to August) and no standing water over 24 hours.
They understand on new construction the major part of cost is site prep and final grade. The seeding is just getting a start on a lawn. It in my opinion takes 3 to 5 years depending on the weather those years to achieve a "golf course" lawn. I haven't had many problems after stating this before we start a project.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2006, 10:39 PM
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I am a sod grower who also installs and will seed when time is right. I due more seeding on our fields than anyone of you probebly will ever do and know the challenges of getting good grass even on good ground. Even though it is true seed can do good part of the year but it is not consistant no matter who you are. We only use gold tag seed and select varieties to do the best in are area. I know several sod farms raise sod on muck or peat soils, even though it looks good coming in it never roots in. We raise sod on a sandy clay loam which is similar to the ground it will be laid on. This is the most important part to consider when buying sod. No matter which way you start a lawn it will not do well if the owners do not take care of it.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2006, 12:24 PM
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One thing i have not seen mentioned..... anyone care to address the incedence of disease problems? i see far more in sod than seeded lawns.

all cultural practices being equal.... i take a seeded lawn anyday. plus once sodded there is generally only one way for the lawn to go....... downhill.
and given the cultural practices of most customers, despite leaving behind instructions......... disaster.

Even sodded lawns benefit from fall aeration and overseeding. try to sell that to a customer who just purchased perfection.

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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2006, 01:40 PM
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GLAN is an unknown quantity at this point
Selling aeration for the sod is easy..........seeding into sod......well, that's not easy.

A rather important person in the Trade Association that I belong to has been telling LCO's like myself to put Rye seed in a spreader and spread it over the just laid sod.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2006, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by greenmachine
I am a sod grower who also installs and will seed when time is right.
Isn't that because sod is slow at reproducing itself because
the reproductive system has been eliminate somewhat?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2006, 12:20 AM
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I love doing sod. We just finished installing 16,000 sf today and the homeowner was thrilled. She was also willing to pay. Most people or companies aren't. I have a good relationship with the company that does all our hydro seeding and he is just as passionate about his seed selection as I am about my plants for a particular job. Hydro seeding jobs with him is a pleasure because he guarantees his work, not me. ( He actually really comes back and reseeds areas not growing well). The only difference I find between sod or seed is the cost the customer is willing to pay. I prefer sod.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2006, 12:54 PM
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If someone's been waiting on the construction/ renovation/etc. on thier home to finish for months they are usually stressed out and impatient and nothing changes thier attitude like all that brown dusty or muddy mess turning into a perfect green lawn in a day. Sod is like a really expensive mood regulator for wealthy homeowners. Like living Prozac.

Around here people have more money than patience and we sell sod when we can. From what I hear we also have some of the best sod in the country so I don't know how it compares elsewhere.
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