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03-04-2005, 01:14 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Kansas City
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 389
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Rd.1 Choices
I have about two weeks to make choices on how i am doing rd. 1 this Spring. I will be making applications between March 15 and April 1. Most lawns aree tttf -- with a few KBG mixes. Rd 2 will be at the beginning of June.
I have two fertilizers that I am trying to choose from. First is a 10-2-8 Natursafe 100% organic and the other is a 21-0-21 ithat s 50%UF and 50% Nutralene with SOP. Originally, I had planned on using the 10-2-8. However, through a lucky break, I was able to pick up a large quanitiy of a 21-0-21 fertilizer for a fairly good price because of supplier liquidating stock.
Here are the two options:
#1 -- appy 10-2-8 NatureSafe 100% organic fertilizer at 5#/1000 and then spraying the yard with Dimension Ultra. Complete release in about 8 weeks.
#2 Apply 21-0-21 that is 50%UF and 50%Nutralene with SOP. I would apply this at 3.5#/1000 for a spring application. Because of the UF, more N could be applied and then also gain more K -- something I like to see in the Spring. 1/3 of N would relase in 8 weeks and would continue gradualy through summer.
Cost wise -- the two applications are similar. Both fertilizers cost me about $.40 per pound. SO they both fit into my price structure.
Basically, I am deciding if the 21-0-21 is better suited for an apllication now or for a heavy late summer feeding applied at about 10#/1000.
I look forward to the discussion that follows.
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03-04-2005, 01:31 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
USDA Zone 6
Posts: 1,322
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hamons
I have about two weeks to make choices on how i am doing rd. 1 this Spring. I will be making applications between March 15 and April 1. Most lawns aree tttf -- with a few KBG mixes. Rd 2 will be at the beginning of June.
I have two fertilizers that I am trying to choose from. First is a 10-2-8 Natursafe 100% organic and the other is a 21-0-21 ithat s 50%UF and 50% Nutralene with SOP. Originally, I had planned on using the 10-2-8. However, through a lucky break, I was able to pick up a large quanitiy of a 21-0-21 fertilizer for a fairly good price because of supplier liquidating stock.
Here are the two options:
#1 -- appy 10-2-8 NatureSafe 100% organic fertilizer at 5#/1000 and then spraying the yard with Dimension Ultra. Complete release in about 8 weeks.
#2 Apply 21-0-21 that is 50%UF and 50%Nutralene with SOP. I would apply this at 3.5#/1000 for a spring application. Because of the UF, more N could be applied and then also gain more K -- something I like to see in the Spring. 1/3 of N would relase in 8 weeks and would continue gradualy through summer.
Cost wise -- the two applications are similar. Both fertilizers cost me about $.40 per pound. SO they both fit into my price structure.
Basically, I am deciding if the 21-0-21 is better suited for an apllication now or for a heavy late summer feeding applied at about 10#/1000.
I look forward to the discussion that follows.
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Hold off on the 21-0-21 for summer feeding.....The K will aid in disease supression. And if you don't get a wet early summer the relase of the N will be nice and slow.
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03-04-2005, 01:42 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Kansas City
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The K applied now will be there for summer disease suppression.
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03-04-2005, 02:01 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
USDA Zone 6
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hamons
The K applied now will be there for summer disease suppression.
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Not with my soils. Although heading to the north shore of the Island there is far less sand and more rock and some clay, which holds nutrients much longer.
Our soil profiles are interesting being an Island....That would be thanks to the Glacial movement.
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03-04-2005, 05:03 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Kansas City
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Good point soil characteristic have to be considered in the decesion.
The one nice thing about Clay soils -- I usually work with CEC of 20 - 30. Hold onto nutrients like a magnet.
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03-04-2005, 08:49 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
USDA
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Why not apply a granular already coated with Dimension? Saves on the labor of spraying.
I used to start with a 20-5-5 w/Dimension, but have used 10-4-6 w/Dimension the past couple years. Spring green-up is not a problem having done the final fall application in November the previous season. Besides, I have to cut those lawns and I'm not interested in adding to the topgrowth we already get here in May.
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03-04-2005, 08:53 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Kansas City
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Not using a coated product because I did not find one that I liked.
Tell me about your 10-4-6.
Derived from?
% DIM?
Last edited by Hamons : 03-04-2005 at 08:56 PM.
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03-04-2005, 09:11 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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Can't give you the breakdown without a label handy. My left over fert is buried behind my rock salt in one of my storage units right now, sorry.
I assume you didn't like the pre-coated ferts because they weren't effective enough in preventing germination? I have to admit that spot-treatment is sometimes required with the granular. Probably that way with all granulars though.
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03-04-2005, 09:19 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Kansas City
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preemergent qualities were not the prob -- it was the fertilizer carrier.
Primarily quick release N and MOP.
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03-04-2005, 10:06 PM
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NuGro is the company that manufactures the 10-4-6 that I use. Their website is www.nugro.com and you can find info on their ferts there. The 10-4-6 contains 0.056% Dithiopyr and nutrient sources come from; urea, monoamonium potash, and muriate of potash. Application rate is 10lb/1000sq.ft.
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03-04-2005, 11:37 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
USDA Zone 6
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Quote:
Originally posted by cutntrim
NuGro is the company that manufactures the 10-4-6 that I use. Their website is www.nugro.com and you can find info on their ferts there. The 10-4-6 contains 0.056% Dithiopyr and nutrient sources come from; urea, monoamonium potash, and muriate of potash. Application rate is 10lb/1000sq.ft.
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10lbs/1,000.......you would still be putting down the same amount of N as the 20-6-4.......Bet that bag covers 10,000sgft
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03-04-2005, 11:39 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
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And being that it is a combo product......Fert and CG preventer. You have to apply at the labeled rate of 10lb/1000.
Where as if you use individual bags of fert and preventer....You can then apply the preventer at labeled rate but cut back the rate of fertilizer for the desired results.
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03-05-2005, 07:56 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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Good point. My second fert application is a full rate application of 24-6-9 in June. That's followed by an half-rate application of the same fert in July. Squeezed between the two is the Merit app for grubs. I'd have to look at the cost of doing the split application for crab/spring fert. That'd be double the labor, and likely more expensive buying two seperate products rather than one. But...it would give greater control over the amount of N applied, as you suggest.
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03-05-2005, 08:18 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally posted by cutntrim
Good point. My second fert application is a full rate application of 24-6-9 in June. That's followed by an half-rate application of the same fert in July. Squeezed between the two is the Merit app for grubs. I'd have to look at the cost of doing the split application for crab/spring fert. That'd be double the labor, and likely more expensive buying two seperate products rather than one. But...it would give greater control over the amount of N applied, as you suggest.
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The cost of product would be less........No need for preventer in shade. Can even reduce rate for lawns that you have had under control for a few years, just apply at label rates in the prone locations.
Although labor is more intensive......more responsible.
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03-05-2005, 12:42 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Mar 2005
USDA
Posts: 39
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Why does everyone still need the spring fert app across the board? Is it just so client thinks he's getting his money's worth?
I must admit I am working in better soils than most anyone else. But I have found that spring fert is only needed in a couple of heavy soil situations, and there it is just a lite app of starter fert. Most of my properties have not had any N application before Memorial Day, about 4-6 weeks after growth initiation and after KBG goes to seed.
Research over the last 20 years has constantly shown that spring N only increases leaf elongation and seedhead production. It does nothing for the overall health of the plant.
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