[jamesn162]

Ok ok. i would say that my work is 30% design install, 50% hardscaping, 10% mait work, 10% traditional masonry. When it comes to cutting pavers what do you guys use and what have you found to be the best. I can tell you that i have used everything from 2.5hp wet masonry saw with a diamond blade, stihl demo sawa with 12 and 14in diamond blades and my most recent purchace of a mk wet saw mounted on a table with a 14in blade that runs on either 120v or 230v it is 11hp and runs at 7,000 rpm and even that has trouble with some pavers. I guess what i want to know is what you guys are running for radius jobs.

Any information would be great seeing that i am just about to start doing the cuts on a 3000 sq ft job with 2 patios and 3 walks

[Stonehenge]

If you have a really powerful saw and are still having trouble with cuts, you may be using the wrong blade for the job. It makes a difference on those bigger jobs.

As for cutting a big project like that, so long as you're doing most of your cutting using something that sits on four legs, you'll always be leaving money at the jobsite - a good 14" cutoff/demo saw is going to be your best tool for quickly cutting in paver projects. But to save the time you have to cut the pavers in place, not pick up each one and walk it back to a designated cutting area.

My current preference is a Partner/Husqvarna K750 - they've taken a step forward in many areas with this saw (though they've also taken a step backward in a couple, too). A 14" blade guard allows you to use a 12" blade for tighter curves. If you need more power or deeper cuts, the 16" K950 is a great saw - we just did some extensive service work on our nearly decade-old K950 and the thing still rips through cuts like butter.

[EpicInterlock]

Here's another perspective. I run a Stihl TS400, have been since I started, and even before I started when I was working/learning the ropes with my old boss. I've never had a problem with that saw, as long as you keep a good set of diamond blades on it....even my very first Stihl still runs to this day, it's 6 years old, and still gets worked like a mother at each job.

I've used a Partner (works well, but ergonomically, I didn't like it) it's a great saw, but to each his own I guess.

Good luck

[natural12]

I have an Edco 5 hp gas powered table saw. Has a honda engine and a 14" blade. No problems cutting thru pavers. We even use it to cut thru the 3.5" cap stones for retaining walls. I think it cost about 2500 bucks.
I would go with gas over electric in case you ever trip a breaker and the homeowner is not around - could be a problem.

[Stonehenge]

We have tub saws, too, but we only use them for very detailed cuts that are hard to do with a cut-off saw. Walking back and forth for every cut is a killer on your bottom line. We did it 8 years ago, then Paul showed me the light, and we've been saving time and money ever since.

[VoodooChile]

The only drawback to Stone's much more efficient method is the dust, which is a serious health hazard and a target of governmental regulation. Seems like I've read elsewhere on GTX that some localities have banned dry cutting of concrete...

[moltenfe]

Our handheld chop style saws come equipted with hose connections for cutting wet to avoid the dust associated with dry cutting. Not only is the dust awful to breathe, it also looks bad when all of the neighbors need to wash their cars after we leave! Cutting wet also prolongs the blade life as well as making the cuts slightly faster.

[worlddiamond1]

Hey James, My name is Mike with WDS. There are different styles of blades out there. You have the traditional segmented(slowest but long lasting), the turbo(serrated edge for fast cuts), the Seg-turbo(hybrid turbo segmented on the segmented core(most popular) and then the U-slot(the fastest cutting for hardest material) it depends on what you are looking for. Life or speed? The Husqvarna(Partner) is one of the best handheld along with the Stihl. As for your raduis cuts, there is a blade called the Convex, it is a blade that is a 4.5" or 5" that is cupped shaped. This blade was originally designed for fabricators that cut out the sink holes in counters. It natually follows a curve where a straight blade has a hard time cutting a radius. Call or IM if you have any questions.

[jamesn162]

wow what a response guys i really appriciate it. thanks to all. stonhedge i tried your method of letting the pavers override the desired radius and then cutting in. it was much quicker than marking the pavers one by one but i had alot fo waste but i already knew that was going to occur but i had a very hard time with my line staying on the pavers. is there a certain kind of marker that will stay on the paver so it can be accurately cut?

[4seasons]

trace the line with your blade first and then start cutting

[VoodooChile]

The problems with wet cutting pavers in a laid field are: 1) the slurry can discolor the pavers, and 2) the water can pull away enough bedding sand to sag the edge.

We wet cut all our natural stone work, but continue to dry cut paver fields for the soldier course.

The hose attachment on the Stihl TS400's we use isn't the best. Plan on it breaking off every couple of months, and when under pressure, it can be next to impossible to get it to couple back on.

[lasting impress]

We cut 99% of the time with our Stihl ts400's. We have a wet table saw, but only use it for confined area's that other people are working in. Cutting dry with the quick cut is dusty, but is way faster than anything else, and the dust is much easier to clean than the wet crud. Take a peice of 3/4 plywood, and just walk along and cut your bricks.
Been doing this for 13 yrs. Not to mention, I feel much better having the blade turning near my steel toe, than my fingers.

[moltenfe]

The slurry that results from the wet cutting of the concrete pavers can be a mess. We have attached a piece of rubber pond liner as a skirt directly behind the blade to keep it from spraying back at the operator and other objects behind him/her. Yes, the slurry can stain the surface, but if you rinse the slurry off imediately after cutting it is not a big deal. The water doe cause some sand movenment but can be fixed in very short order as the cut off pieces are remove prior to the installation of the soldier course. With OHSA watching more closely and the health of our customers and employees being improtant to us this seems a small adjustment to have to make. Not only that but our legal advisors have stated that we could be held liable to future health issues resulting from the "misuse" of hazardous products. The wet cutting is a little more work than dry cutting, but is still light years faster than a table saw and it covers our butts

[Keith N]

Originally Posted by jamesn162

i had a very hard time with my line staying on the pavers. is there a certain kind of marker that will stay on the paver so it can be accurately cut?

Sharpie, crayon, soapstone, As stated mark your line with a good marking pencil and score the line than cut. I raved on that trick earlier this season, it's the cat's meow. lol