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06-30-2003, 06:07 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
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My new compactor
I thought I'd show off a pic of my new (used) compactor. Bomag 4545, Diesel, reversible, with over 9,000# of compressive force.

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06-30-2003, 08:33 PM
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Whip
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Join Date: Mar 2003
USDA Zone 11
Posts: 325
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Jeff,
Do you need a skid loader to get it in and out of your trucks? We rented one like that for a month a while back. No way to man-handle that thing. Not enough places for enough guys to grab on to lift it. They do a great job.
Peace,
Rex
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Rex Mann
RM Stonescaping
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06-30-2003, 09:46 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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I thought I felt the ground shaking a little bit here today.............
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06-30-2003, 10:24 PM
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Yeah, not a prayer at lifting it by hand. I think they said it weighs 700 pounds. It's got a big hook on top that I can thread with a fork on the skid steer and just place on a truck. We are pulling this monster out for vehicular pavement base prep, retaining walls, and pedestrian pavements where we're near a foundation that has not had the proper time to settle.
We used it for the base prep for the display we did for that supplier - everyone could feel the vibration across the 100 foot length of the project.
I get a rush out of running that thing - what a monster!
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07-01-2003, 09:35 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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Hey.....look at that........"seed aide"
Yet another copy of Pennmulch!
Its interesting seeing diff't brands of materials.
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07-01-2003, 09:57 PM
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Yup - pretty much the same thing as Penn Mulch. Prettier blue-green color, maybe.
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07-18-2003, 08:47 AM
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Whip
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Join Date: Jun 2003
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I have one similar.
It now sits broken down in the shed. $3000 to overhaul the engine or $8,500 for a new petrol one.
Haven't had a need for it in a few years as I mainly do walls now and use a ramming plate for compaction.
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Anyone want to move to Aus and buy my business?
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07-18-2003, 01:27 PM
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I had a chance to use a rammer for the first time a few days ago - not the easiest machine in the world to use and control. Are there varying sizes to those machines as well? The rammer we used wouldn't really do a good job compacting base for larger projects - too small.
We're beginning to use that monster on our regular patio installs - seems to reduce the time it takes to screed and compact the stone, because that thing packs it so tight before we even set our screed pipe.
Where we'd ordinarily screed 3-4 times, we're only doing it twice now.
Though I think a tight fitting jock should be standard equipment with that thing.
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07-18-2003, 07:13 PM
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Whip
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Join Date: Jun 2003
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Youre right.
No good for compacting base. Only for trenches behing walls and for pipe work.
There are different sizes, but all difficult to use at first.
I just can't justify the purchase of a new big plate. I have spent too much on my machines and trucks.
Once you have compacted your base, do you place any loose material to lay your pavers on? Or just onto the compacted base?
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07-18-2003, 09:44 PM
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For our method, it's right on top of the compacted base, which is the middle stone in the picture of the three different stones in the paver base spec test (which reminds me - I need to corral more info on that test and post it).
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07-18-2003, 11:03 PM
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Whip
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Join Date: Mar 2003
USDA Zone 11
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Jeff,
What do you screed twice. The screenings or base? I don't understand why you would screed twice. Unless, you screed your base.
Peace,
Rex
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Rex Mann
RM Stonescaping
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07-18-2003, 11:40 PM
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Our method, using no sand, requires multiple screeds of the crushed stone we use as base, to ensure a homogenous base.
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07-19-2003, 12:11 AM
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Ranger
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Location: Chicago
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So you screed until its flat? Seems to be a whole bunch more work going on to install than a sand setting bed.
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07-19-2003, 04:35 AM
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I would have thought that the pavers would rock around too much on a hard base. There is nothing for the pavers to bed into.
I have found that the sand bed allows slightly bowed pavers to bed in, and also allows for slight thickness variations to be evened out during the final compaction of the pavers. Thus giving a better finish to the pavement.
I can't see any advantage of laying the pavers straight onto the base.
I have found in jobs where the base is too high in sections and there is only a skim of sand over it, that the pavers don't get good interlock in this section. That's why I make sure that we have at least 15mm of sand to bed that pavers into. 30mm is optimal over stone and 50mm over concrete.
Sorry jeff, but I still think that a sand bed is needed to achieve the best finished product.
Maybe our pavers are more uneven than yours. I know that the cheeper clay pavers can be very bowey(is that how you spell it).
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07-19-2003, 08:13 AM
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Hey, I know that my side of this debate does not have as many people on it. That's why I'm standing on my chair when I type this - so everyone can hear it.
But that's why I wanted to run this test - to see if what I'm hearing is true, and if so, then we'll make the switch to a larger stone for the base, and a sand bedding course.
But actually, clay pavers tend to be more expensive here than concrete pavers. Are they less expensive by you?
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