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Old 06-12-2003, 10:37 PM
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Urethane pad on whacker

Stonehenge:

I noticed on your add for the compactor that it included a pad for use on pavers. I have never seen these before. Is this a common thing in your area. The common practice in my area is too spray a stream of water from a hose in front of the packer. This provides the cushioning needed to prevent the breaking of pavers. Just curious
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Old 06-12-2003, 11:11 PM
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Getting to be very common around here. We're not so worried about breakage as we are scratchage. Install something like a Unilock Old Greenwich Cobble and run that metal plate on the pavers and they'll scratch the tops of the texture, leaving the paver looking damaged. The urethane pad prevents that scratching. Screw in 2 bolts through the pad and into the compactor and it's ready to go.

On tumbled products we run the plate without the pad.
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Old 06-13-2003, 05:32 PM
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I have never noticed a problem with scatchage using the hose and water method. I am going to watch a little more closely to see if we are getting any damage that I might not be noticing because I am getting blind in my old age.
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Old 06-13-2003, 07:11 PM
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The pad is a little spendy for allot of guys. My competition uses Napa mudflap. We would use sheets of plywood for OGC or IL Compo.

Peace,

Rex
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Old 06-13-2003, 09:22 PM
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I've noticed the textured pavers get a bit of a glaze over them but it seems to wear off in a day or two. I don't use any buffer between the steel and pavers.

I did my only clay paver job a few years ago and was worried about bustin up the pavers so I duck taped a piece of carpet to the bottom of the plate. I know you do a fair amount of clay down there, was the pad more geared toward clay pavers?

Water seems a funny choice to me. I want to have the sand dry to get it in the joints. I pack the pavers into the bedding sand then spread sand and vibrate that in too. Water just doesn't fit in the equation.

Jeff, you mentioned about not having the spec sheet on the plate you are selling, my recent research has lead me to believe Wacker and Bomag use a similar naming system. Wacker 1550 is a plate that hits at 15Kn (3375 lbs) and is 50cm wide. Bomag 15/45-2would be 15Kn 45 cm wide. I'm not sure what the 2 signifies though it likely would be engine type, honda vs robin. I just picked up a brand new Wacker 1540 on Wednesday so your Bomag won't be relocating to Port Perry, sorry.
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Old 06-13-2003, 09:40 PM
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I have seen some specs on wetting the joint sand after sweeping and vibrating it. The water acting as a lubricant would help it "slide" down the joints. As we all know, a little water goes a long way.

Peace,

Rex
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Old 06-13-2003, 09:52 PM
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Sure, but the scratches come from the plate. The pavers need to be set in the bedding before jointing. I prefer to put the sand in dry and it is essential for poly sand. The weather often makes it impossible to joint with dry sand and washing it in becomes an acceptable alternative.
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Old 06-13-2003, 11:52 PM
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Poly or organic joint sand is quickly becoming popular here (or at least it seems to be when I tell people we use it ), and it has to be dry, dry, dry to spread that out.

Digin - the pad works great on clay pavers as well. But the main reason I got it is we did a walkway with a paver like OGC as far as texture. Looked gorgeous. Then I ran our compactor over it and scratched the tops of every paver. After the urge to hurl passed, I went out and got a pad.

Show me 10 patios, one of which did not use a pad, and I'll be able to pick it out. Even on Holland, the bevels aren't rubbed or scratched. And the pad is very tough - no signs of wearing down anytime soon.
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Old 06-14-2003, 12:06 AM
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"And the pad is very tough - no signs of wearing down anytime soon."

I use polyurethane for the cutting edges on my snow plows, so I can vouch for this comment. As long as the urethane is from one of the companies selling the higher quality stuff, it will last a long time. Stonehenge, How thick is that pad? I have some pieces lying around that I was trying to figure out what to do with, and I think you have solved that problem for me Hate to throw away 100 bucks worth of something just because I have no use for it anymore.
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Old 06-14-2003, 12:13 AM
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Thickness? Probably something like 1/4" - 3/8".
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Old 06-14-2003, 12:11 PM
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I was just browsing through the new Unilock data guide and found this - thought it would be pertinent to this conversation.
Attached Thumbnails
Urethane pad on whacker-unilock_scuffing_warning.gif  
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Old 06-16-2003, 05:36 PM
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I almost always wet sweep my sand into the pavers which is why we use water when we pack. It dosn't take a lot to provide a cushion. The packer noise is different when you have the water right. We havn't used a lot of the polymeric sand. The only place that we have used it so far is on steps and overlays on concrete stoops or verandas.
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Old 06-24-2003, 08:58 PM
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Hi

My name is Bernard and I live in Australia. I have been Paving for over 20 years now and have always used a urethane mat.

You will find that you can buy it from a urethane menufacturer very cheaplly. I bought mine for about 1/4 the cost of one from a plate compactor manufacturer. I had a mounting plate made for it and away I went.

I have only gone through 2 in 20 years and I have done some large Commercial projects, some up to 4,500sq metres.

I have been reading through this site and love it. Have already learn't some interesting facts.
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Old 06-24-2003, 10:06 PM
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4,500 sq meters? Holy smoke! That's more than an acre of brick!!

Was it hand laid, or did you use some of those laying machines (I believe Probst/Pave Tech sells one, but don't know if Probst has a presence in Australia)?
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Old 06-25-2003, 02:36 AM
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All hand laid.

The machines we have over here are only good for interlocking pavers laid in herringbone pattern. This job was a mall in Sydney using a 300mm x 150mm x 50mm paver.

This site is a fantastic idea. I am going to see if the Landscaping association I belong to will do something similar.
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