[Stonehenge]

Last year I had an axle go south on me - probably a matter of pushing the weight limit a bit too much. The rest of the trailer is in good shape - needs some new planks, but otherwise good.

To the untrained eye, it appears to just be a matter of a few U bolts, leaf springs and axles. Is there anything I should be watching out for, or something in particular I should or shouldn't buy when doing this retro-fit?

If I recall, Paul had done something like this, and it sounded like it was a do-able thing.

Thanks in advance,


Jeff

[Pelican]

You'll just need to find a couple measuring points to align the new axle to. Before removing the old ones, take a measurement and mark each frame rail at the same distance on each side. Then when you've replaced the axle, check it against these marks. It doesn't necessarily have to be the original measurement, but both sides should be equal. This is considering the original axle was straight.

You don't say how big the axle is, but if it has brakes, I'd recommend you use Dexter Axles to replace with. They may cost a few bucks more, but I've learned from experience they are much easier to get parts for!

[PSUscaper]

I've only helped replace a torflex axle, so can't say I'm much help with a spring one, but imagine it isn't too hard. My only advice would be, that if the trailer has brakes, try to get a pre-assembled axle with everything already installed such as the hub, brakes, etc. Price wise, it seems to almost work out the same as buying the seperate units and takes away a lot of headaches.

steve

[Paul]

I've replaced 1 axle, and it was the last time I would do it. They give out for a reason. Like you said overloading it causes problems. The real question is what happened to the axle? bearings go out? Did you bend it? Or did your springs break?

[Stonehenge]

You'll have to excuse my uneducated axle-speak, but there's a point where the shaft of the axle is welded the wheel hub assembly. That weld cracked halfway causing a bend in between the wheel hub assembly and axle, making it pretty much unable to support a load. This manifests itself in a tire that rubs all over in the wheel well, wrecking a new meat in just a few minutes.

The springs appear to be fine.

The trailer is 7 years old, I believe. So everything is still in decent shape.

The trailer does have brakes, but they are surge brakes. Each axle is rated at 5,000#, but I'd like to beef them up a bit, maybe to 6 or 7,000 each.

I think a pre-assembled option sounds best - less for me to goof up. I'll check into Dexter - any other brands stand out as good ones?

[jwholden]

Jeff,

In my recent trailer research and from what I gather around the site Dexter is the name to go with. Everyone has them.

There is an option called easy lube on those axles which is a zerk on the axle for greasing the bearings. I WISH I had that on my current equipment trailer, for I would have greased those bearings atleast once since I bought it. I may be referring to this post in the near future...

It seems that once you get to a 5 ton gross trailer everyone puts 6000 lb axles on them. That is the minimum size I would go with.

If you really want to jazz up your trailer how about a pair of 6' ALUMINUM ramps that weigh 95lbs COMBINED and can support 8000 lbs. I bet your (employees) back would appreciate that.

[Pelican]

For parts availability, Dexter is the only one to consider. Most all auto perts stores and trailer dealers stock their parts, any other axle will require special order for parts. Can you afford to have the trailer laid up waiting for parts?

[HRLand]

You should be able to put those bearing buddies on your existing axle. They replace the center cap that's on there now.

[Bill Schwab]

Jeff:

If you are going to do an whole axle, all it has will be 4 u-bolts, bolted inside the springs. Unhook the backing plates to the brakes, and you should be able to leave them as assemblies, then wire them somehow so they don't dangle (this would tear a brake line) pull the axle, and slide in the new one. Torch the U-bolts off, don't even waste your time trying to unbolt them, and replace the U-bolts. Should take about an hour for the whole job, 2 hours if you are alone.

[jwholden]

You should be able to put those bearing buddies on your existing axle.

[Stonehenge]

HR - hate to sound dumb, but what are bearing buddies?

Bill - thanks for the info. I usually make things out to be way harder than they are.

I've found a Dexter dealer in town - will stop by next week to figure out an order.

[scott C]

Can't really add troo much more than what has already been said but if you need to pack your wheel bearings a bearing packer tool is a great buy for around 20 bucks.

I used to feel that buying one was almost like "cheating" a waste of money and a sign of laziness. I broke down today and bought one and am now kicking myself for noy getting it sooner. NO mess and speedy. Highly recomended

[HRLand]

Jeff,

The bearing buddies are basically caps for the ends of trailer axles but they have a grease fitting in the center and a rubber cover. They let you grease the bearings without taking the whole spindle apart.

[Bill Schwab]

If you pack the cavity in the wheel hub full of grease, the bearings will heat up faster and wear out sooner than if you pack the bearings, and leave a small smear of grease in the center of the cavity.

Bearing buddies are an alternative for boat trailers which are in and out of water weekly during season. Take the grease gun, fill the cavity, and push the water out.

Proof of this theory was shown to me by a building manager in Illinois, who, removed the grease fitting from the bearings on a furnace fan some 30 years ago. The bearings have not been greased, nor have they worn out. Repack in the winter months, but don't fill the cavity all the way up.

Nice little tidbit I thought when the guy showed me...