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10-02-2007, 11:06 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR
USDA Zone 8
Posts: 130
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Root of the Problem
Hey what do you do when large trees are removed and compromise the beds surrounding from being planted with their roots? What are some of the solutions out there?
Thanks!
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Karla Kramer-Bither
Second Nature Landscape Design
Beaverton, Oregon
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10-02-2007, 11:15 PM
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Ranger
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Southwest ct
USDA Zone 6
Posts: 1,742
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Could you please say that again with a little more detail.
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As a father I was always aware that I was raising my sons to leave home, marry, establish families, and be men who could stand on their own two feet. We must fulfill our own destiny. I really wasn't concerned about what they might 'do' but I wanted them to 'be' good men.
- David Epps
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10-02-2007, 11:32 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Phoenix
USDA Zone 9
Posts: 207
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Are you saying there are large (OLD) roots grown into a garden area you want to plant?
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Yes, this is Phoenix. Yes, it's REALLY hot here. Yes, I love it.
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10-03-2007, 12:03 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR
USDA Zone 8
Posts: 130
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oh sorry....lets see...when these large trees are removed, they leave behind a planting bed full of roots. I am just interested in what other folks in the landscape field have for solutions.
Create a raised bed? Can the roots be removed, but only after time? Do the roots eventually disintegrate and when?
thanks
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Karla Kramer-Bither
Second Nature Landscape Design
Beaverton, Oregon
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10-03-2007, 01:44 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Jul 2006
USDA
Posts: 52
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Dig out the roots that are in the way.... 
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...he said with a sawdusty sneeze, "I am the Lorax. I speak for the trees. I speak for the trees, for the trees have no tongues. And I'm asking you, sir, at the top of my lungs--"
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10-03-2007, 10:06 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,243
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The roots will decay in time, but not quickly enough to make the new planting easy.
You might modify your container size if you are planting perennials, and use plugs instead of larger sizes like gallons.
If you are planting trees and shrubs with large root-balls, than do what Forge suggests, and use hand-saws and chain-saws to remove roots as needed.
The King of Spades nursery spade is also useful for such work, lovingly known by my guys as "The Bomber".
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10-03-2007, 10:35 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR
USDA Zone 8
Posts: 130
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Forge,
Was hoping for some other ideas aside from the absolute obvious!! The roots are HUGE as it is a native Maple that was removed.
Thanks, tho!
Quote:
Originally posted by Forge
Dig out the roots that are in the way....
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Karla Kramer-Bither
Second Nature Landscape Design
Beaverton, Oregon
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10-03-2007, 10:39 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR
USDA Zone 8
Posts: 130
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VooDoo,
Thanks! I will have to take a look at this awesome spade you are talking about!
Seems like lately I have had lots of inquiries about big trees and the collateral damage they do to beds that they are currently in and also to beds that they have recently been in! Sometimes folks have trees in beds that need a little renovating (new plants, etc) and we have these HUGE ROOTS to maneuver through whilst planting shrubs, etc.
Just seeing if there were any other solutions beyond what I was doing to remedy the issue!
Thank you!
Quote:
Originally posted by VoodooChile
The roots will decay in time, but not quickly enough to make the new planting easy.
You might modify your container size if you are planting perennials, and use plugs instead of larger sizes like gallons.
If you are planting trees and shrubs with large root-balls, than do what Forge suggests, and use hand-saws and chain-saws to remove roots as needed.
The King of Spades nursery spade is also useful for such work, lovingly known by my guys as "The Bomber".
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__________________
Karla Kramer-Bither
Second Nature Landscape Design
Beaverton, Oregon
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10-03-2007, 10:48 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 7,552
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The roots will take an extremely long time to decay to the point where you can plant in and around them. Building up a bed just to avoid removable tree roots seems like an expensive solution to a small problem, and forcing a design element that isn’t necessary.
Why are the roots such a big deal? Saws, trucks stump grinders and/or skid steers would make quick work of them.
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10-03-2007, 11:13 AM
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Whip
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Join Date: May 2006
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 326
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Get a backhoe, dig out the roots in the bed, fill back up with good soil/compost.
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10-03-2007, 06:54 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Jul 2006
USDA
Posts: 52
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If it is a big-leaf maple then you can expect the roots to decompose to a state where they are easily removed in about 3 years...that is of course assuming that the tree was actually killed as those buggers have a STRONG tendency to start sprouting back up, even if the stump is ground down.
At least you aren't trying to work in a bed that used to have a Red Cedar!
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...he said with a sawdusty sneeze, "I am the Lorax. I speak for the trees. I speak for the trees, for the trees have no tongues. And I'm asking you, sir, at the top of my lungs--"
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10-04-2007, 09:55 AM
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Whip
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Join Date: Feb 2004
USDA
Posts: 302
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I'd echo the saw--either chain or cutoff type--or a stump grinder. Good operators can chase them quite a ways and remove quite a bit of them, unless they're something like locusts in an island surrounded by pavement. 
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10-04-2007, 11:31 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR
USDA Zone 8
Posts: 130
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Hey thanks everyone! Great solutions.
Also, what about if old planting beds have a large, old tree STILL alive and growing. I have had issues with that also. Lots of large often surfacing roots, make planting difficult. I am wondering how much nice new garden mix is OK to dump on top of these roots without suffocating the tree?
Also, often these roots are creeping beyond the bed and into the lawn. What are some creative solutions for this situation?
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Karla Kramer-Bither
Second Nature Landscape Design
Beaverton, Oregon
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10-07-2007, 12:06 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Feb 2007
USDA
Posts: 26
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What species are the trees? How much of the area within the dripline are you wanting to fill?
Several inches of a garden mix might be okay. You'd definitelywant to stay away from filling with a clay soil.
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