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Old 11-20-2006, 12:38 PM
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nuke Questions: In-ground Well Lighting in Concrete

Hope I can get some assistance with a question that I've been having a hard time getting an answer too...

I am installing 12V in-ground well lights into a fresh pour concrete deck around my pool. These lights are the sealed kind that are suitable for wet environments. I will be running the cable in Sched 40 PVC to each of the fixtures.



Questions:

1. It seems that many of these lights do not specify whether or not they come with sleeves, and in most they don't, so how do you physically install them into concrete so that they don't get pushed around and knocked out of level?
2. And if you do install without a sleeve, how do you make it work with the pvc and the cable?
3. Is it okay to have the cable embedded in concrete?
4. What about slack in the cable?

TIA!!

M

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Old 11-20-2006, 04:56 PM
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Are you using the type of well that is basically a 6" pvc pipe with the guts put into it? If you are they fit well into a 6" sched 40 pipe like a sleeve-- but you will need a bezel or grate for the top of your light to cover the sleeve.

I would run a conduit to each light so that if you have problems later you can pull a new wire.

Something to think about--- i did something very similar to this in pavers and you are going to need to provide some type of drainage for each fixture or your well lights are going to turn into water wells.

Hope that helps

K-
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Old 11-21-2006, 02:14 AM
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Thanks for the tip. These are the lights that I ordered. It's solid brass and sealed

http://www.ccl-light.com/docs/outdoo...707/index.html

Hope this helps.

Thanks,
M
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Old 01-01-2007, 02:07 PM
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Dealing with underground work for commercial wiring projects (Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart, Bed and Bath, Best Buy, etc...- electrical contractor working on the store shells) there are many options avaiable so that you could run schedule 40 pvc to junction boxes and install the lights into them. This give you the option and flexibility of pulling new wire in should you have a section that goes bad, the ability to swtich out fixtures when they go bad (nothing lasts forever) and room for upgrades should you look to build a pool house or add a hot tub at a later date. It's easy to change out the light, and if you pulled in a separate circuit, add an outlet or junction box to tie in the new structure. The only trick is when it comes to sealing the boxes- they come with neoprene gaskets, but honestly they tear easy and are not waterproof. Use gel filled wire nuts to keep moisture out, and seal the lights where they attach to the box with clear 50 year silicone. This will in effect glue the light right to the box and seal out any water from getting directly in, and when you do get a leak after a few years, the gel filled wire nuts will keep yout conections from corroding and falling apart. I have seen this done many times for in floor outlets and juntion boxes where they are exposed and get a floor washer run over them every day. I would also recomend spending the money for the heavier cast brass fixtures as they will hold up the longest to any chemicals in the pool water as well as the rain, sun, etc... Make sure you use stainless steel screws to prevent any oxidation from forming between two dissimilar metals- the most common problem seen on call backs or maintenance work I have done as an electrician.

Hope this helps!!

Bill
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