[Fritzjr]

Problem statement:
120' of fence. Fence posts every 7.5' made out of 4"x4" square steel (hollow). Fence posts fabricated with 1/2" threaded holes at 5' above ground level (agl) for lighting fixtures and holes at 1.5' agl for electric outlets. 3/4" elec conduit runs under bottom rail between each post. With overall lenght of run at 120' plus going up and down each post 5' - the run ends up being more like 280'!! The 3/4" conduit will make pulling both line voltage wiring for the outlets AND 10 Gauge or larger wire for low-voltage fixtures above too difficult. I am therefor looking for small sconses like you find so many of in the low-voltage fixtures - in line voltage. Half-round hockey puck style deck lights would work great, but I can't find any in 110/120.

I could put in a low-voltage fixture at each location if I used a single small transformer at each and every fixture inside the post, but that really starts to get spendy at over 40 fixtures!!!

Any ideas??? I could really use some advise fast!

Thanks,
Paul

[Bill Schwab]

Run your 10-2 wire just below the fence rails in the dirt, then punch a small hole and add a gromet to insulate for the 10-2. You can easily run the 10-2 by direct bruial, and using the 4" steel post as the conduit for the LV light.

Other than that, Vista has a whole new line of 120V. You could call tech support and ask them if they have, or know of anything that can help your situation if you still want to run the 10-2 in conduit.

[Fritzjr]

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the reply. I have considered what you suggest, as well as just running it (10-2 Low Voltage wire) along the top of the same fence rail that holds the 110/120 conduit underneath since 12v doesn't need to be in conduit. Either way, I've got to get out there and drill the wood (the 4x4 steel posts are wrapped in redwood to look like wood 6x6 posts), drill through the steel etc. 40+ times! That plus having to place transformers (2 large or 40 individual) etc. just seems like too much more work to button this thing up! I guess I'm at the burn-out phase of this lenghty project, 'cause it sure sounds like I'm whining!

I'll try to Google Vista and see what they've got. Going 110/120 with the existing infrastructure sure seems like a simpler way to go. I got another referral to ccl-light.com and they also have a couple of nice items - just thought I'd pass you back something that may come in handy in the future if you didn't know about them already.

Thanks,
Paul

[Bill Schwab]

Paul:

I just thought of another thing. You could run one 1200 watt transformer, if you ran 8 or 6-2 wire to feed the 10-2, and if you break the lights apart in even runs of 5 with 4 feed wires directly off the transformer. That way each run of 5 per left and 5 per right side run get even juice. You are still going to have to fight that steel pole, but it might be alot less mousing around for you. You could actually install an outdoor pole style junction box in the middle of the run and be done with it.

Food for thought anyway.

[litenut]

I agree with the 1200 watt transformer to make it an easier installation. I would use what I call a multi-tap transformer meaning it has several voltage taps to choose from. By doing a couple of simple voltage drop calculations you can correctly choose the propper voltage tap. We have transformers that are 12, 13, 14 and 15 volt tapped and transformers that are 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19 and 22 volt tapped. By running say 4 main lines out of the transformer with 10-2 wire you could section the lights in 10's, making your balance perfect and decreasing your voltage drop problem. Just an idea.

[GLAN]

Multi tap is the way to go

But that is alot of run and alot of lights......still doable up to a 20 watt bulb....

I was at a landscape lighting seminar this past September....This particular manufacturer has voltage regulators that draw only the necessary volts for the fixture........meaning you can run longer lines and more lights without voltage drop

What happens with this kind of lighting is that the longer the run the higher the wattage and yes voltage needed to supply the adequate amount of juice to the last light in the circuit.

In fact.....I have some material from the seminar and a layout tool they gave us that gave us wire size and transformer size and all that jazz for length of rund and number of lights........

I have to look for it.....let me get back to you tomorrow........if I don't reply by this time........give me a shout via PM or bump this thread


BTW the voltage units I mentioned.......they solve the problem of having the first light in the run super bright and the last kinda dull.......These voltage units can be installed seperate or can buy the light units with them already installed...not all lights, but many.

[GLAN]

Company that gave the seminar

www.rsllighting.com


There chart indicates the need for 2 transformers.... #10 wire max 300w on the run for 24v tap for 250ft of wire

[litenut]

That's a great idea. We also have dealt with RSL. I believe the voltage regulator needs a at least 15 volts to work correctly, by combining the multi-tap transformer and the voltage regulator the system would operate perfectly.

good advice!!

[Fritzjr]

Thanks for all the great advise guys! I went ahead and got 110 fixtures from ccl-lighting.com, but will use your ideas when I get to the back yard. If you ever need help ask for Steve at ccl-lighting.com - very helpful/good guy.

Thanks again and Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays to all!