[tfld]

Just kidding.

I have my first lighting job coming up tomorrow. I've gathered all my parts including 2-300watt vista trannys, 5-20w Unique path lights, and 3-35w unique bullet/spot lights.

A couple questions for the pros:

1. Should I be worrying about overloading if I'm using hubs w/ home runs of less than 80 ft of 12 guage wire?? Each tranny will have two runs of 60-80ft of 12guage wire connected to a hub w/ 20-75watts of fixtures to power.

2. Is a volt meter necessary??

3. How do you determine which tap to use for each run?? and can you use the same taps for each run??

Nick

[chesie]

Your meter is your most important tool when doing lighting. You need to check the voltage at EACH lights connection to find what you are drawing - ideally you want to be around 11.5 - 12.5 volts(roughly). So if at the connection you are drawing 10 volts on the 12 tap then you will need to move to a higher voltage tap- in this case probably 14 volts.


The taps allow you to increase the volatage going into that run to compensate for voltage drops from lengh of run.


In your situation I would probably run 10-2 runs to the lights. 12-2 is a little small for what you will be drawing. It will save you headaches and allow a little bit of expansion on the run for later date. We use 10-2 almost always it is only pennies more than 12-2.


Hope that helps

[tfld]

chesie,

I already purchased the 12#. Eeryone I've asked recommends 12. Do you really think my project is large. I thought it was pretty small and simple. Maybe I'm just not understanding.

You really just cleared up a major question I've had about the voltage taps. I was wondering how you were supposed to use the different taps. Thank You.

So, should if I'm running a home run to a hub with 75 watts of fixtures attached to it what do I want to use.??

Do I just start at the smallest tap, take a reading at the fixture (or the hub??) and adjust to the correct tap accordingly??

Thanks alot.

Nick

[chesie]

Your project is not large it is a good size for your first job. I use the 10 wire cause it does not cost much more and it gives a cushion. I like to overbuild things a bit Remember to put conduits at bed/lawn intersections and anywhere you think will be prone to wire damge. If you use well lights of any sort make sure you surround them with pea gravel for drainage and to keep the heat down.

As far as what tap to use first it is kind of a educated guess at first try. If you have a longer run with multiple fixtures on it you can guess you will need one of the larger taps. The 12 tap is ussually only going to be good for a fixture say within 45' of the trans. There are alot of variables that attribute to voltage drops- coiling excess wire attributes alot to this.

Sometimes I think it would be easier to use 120 on everything and sometimes we do for that very reason.

[jwholden]

OK, I've only done one lighting job and been to one seminar. Take my comments at that.

If you are going over 100' or 100 watts you should use 10 gauge wire as a general rule. When I did my install I used only 10 gauge wire like Chesie. The only problem with all 10 gauge is the transformer gets crowded if you have a lot of runs.

Once you have your splices done hook all home runs to the 12V tap. You may have to separate your common wires to avoid tripping the circuit breaker. You also may need an adapter 'thingy' to give you space to connect all of your wires to that tap.

The company I learned from checks the voltage at the splice, not the light. This year they have come up with a way to check it at the light as well. Round the voltage at the splice to a whole number (up or down) and go up as many taps as neccesary to get it to 12.

Professional lighting is as complicated as you make it. It is very straightforward process with rules to follow and has a HUGE impact on a landscape. Once you complete your first professional job you will laugh at that junk they sell at big orange.

[tfld]

Okay. I think I got it.

One more: I have one run with only one 20w fixture by itself. Will this fixture be proan to burning out prematurely. If so, how much quicker than the others??

Nick

[jwholden]

A circuit with one 20W bulb will last just as long as the others, because you checked the voltage at the splice or bulb and adjusted it to be in the ideal range.

I had to do that with my job because the closest other splice was too far away. I felt kind of stupid running 70 feet of 10 gauge wire for one lousy lamp, but was happy I went through the effort that night!

[chesie]

Jw-

You used the solder pot didn't you? How did you like it? I have been seriously considering it cause there is nothing worse than a silicone wire nut.

[jwholden]

Loved it.

Couldn't imagine doing a lighting job without it.

But you still use the silicone wire nut on top of the soldered splice.

My lighting rep says he knows where you can order a setup with the pot, solder, flux, and convenient holder for between 2-300. Luckily he let me borrow his setup when we did my install.

Do NOT get paste flux. Liquid is a MUCH better splice.

[tfld]

wow, a couple of pros...

Heres another good one:

The house we're working at is fully stone veneer ie theres no way to mount the transformer directly oto the house, so each tranny is going to hang on a 6x6x about 3' post in convenient, out-of -the way spots.

Should I be concerned about lighting?? And while we're on that topic, ever heard of lightening striking a copper fixture??

Nick