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Old 05-13-2004, 07:37 AM
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Troubleshooting low voltage system

I've got a customer who has a fairly comprehensive lighting scheme installed by a previous contractor which we maintain along with the rest of the landscape. The only problem is that we don't know where wires are buried and we don't know when something goes wrong other than checking a bulb, where else to look.

We have two sections of the system that won't turn on, so we're thinking cut wire. Are there any tools out there than can trace burried wires - or do we need to dig/pull up the old wire throughout the yard hunting a possible split in the wire?

Also - I'm looking for a good training book with a trouble shooting section for low voltage lighting. Any suggestions on a resource?
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Old 05-13-2004, 11:12 AM
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I don't know about low voltage lighting systems, but I do know that underground dog fencing has a tool like that... lemme see if I can find something about it.
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Old 05-13-2004, 11:20 AM
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Hmmm.... Not sure it would work - but this might:

http://www.tool-universe.com/c/Cat/G..._200305011.htm
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Old 05-13-2004, 11:44 AM
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Just ordered one... for $146.00 from USA Tool/Transportation Supplies.

Thanks... we'll see how this works.
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Old 05-13-2004, 06:55 PM
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I have had some success in tracing wires using cheap walkie talkies. Get the kind kids use to play with that has a button that you push to send morse code. Dismantle one of them and remove the antenna and attach a test lead with clip to the antenna wire. Clip this lead to the wire you want to trace in the soil. Turn on the walkie talkie and tape down the morse code button. Then take the other walkie talkie and use it to find the wire in the ground by listening for the tone and its strength. Not as good as a pro model wire tracer but it only costs about $15.00.
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Old 05-13-2004, 08:43 PM
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The standard wire chaser I know of is the Progressive model 521, used by most irrigation guys to find valves and chase valve wires. Some of the irrigation suppliers have them to rent, along with some rental centers. A pretty simple device that isn't too hard to figure out.

Hopefully its just a cut wire and nothing else. Don't know what the system looks like, but I would leave it at that if you find a break and it turns on. Too many things could be wrong with the system to even begin trying to solve the problem if they don't turn on after the break is fixed.

Be sure to tell the people that if no break is found, they should be ready for the worst..............its common for a 'few lights' not working turning into a complete rip out and new install of the entire system.
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Old 05-13-2004, 09:28 PM
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Being an old Clevelander, I would suggest taking a Kichler Lighting Landscape seminar. They are worth the money.
We are a Kichler premier contractor, and only use them. PM me if you want their number. They are located just in Independence just off 480 at 7711 East Pleasant Valley.

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Old 05-13-2004, 10:45 PM
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Dan, if I'm ever going to be stranded somewhere - remind me to take you along...
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Old 05-13-2004, 11:02 PM
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Old 05-14-2004, 12:17 AM
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I know this does not solve your propblem, but, the issue you describe is exactly why we bury all LV lighting in conduit and place junction boxes at grade near the lights. Cost a few hundred dollars more to do it that way, but if you ever have a problem, it is easy to trace and find.
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Old 05-14-2004, 07:26 AM
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Funny, the house we are working at has line voltage lighting. The contractor installed the wiring a whole 2" below grade. Didn't bother putting a pipe over the wire where the edge of the bed is or anything.

I've either got to lower my standards or start charging more, for the end result from my jobs are much different than 90% of the guys out there.
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Old 05-23-2004, 05:57 PM
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Well, I've looked at the system in a little more detail and I don't think it's a wire. There are three zones/transformers (600 w each). When I opened the third transformer only the #1 circuit had wire going to it - so the transformer isn't balanced. Would this cause the breaker in the transformer to trip? I know that a transformer is supposed to have equal load on both sides - circuit one and two. I'm assuming this used to work until recently, which is why we got the call from the customer. Before I can worry about any other problems on the system I've got to get it to turn on first.

Any suggestions?
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Old 05-23-2004, 09:37 PM
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It's hard to really help without seeing the system.

I'm trained with multi-tap transformers, so what your saying sounds a little out of wack already.

I'd first start off simply by counting the number of lights and the watt lamps in each of those lights going to the transformer. If the total wattage is over 450w combined, that could be the first problem, especially if the lights are far away from the transformer.

After that, you really have to start getting involved. First thing is going to be a volt and amp meter to start doing some testing. There are general guidlines too follow, that need to be followed. You may also consider testing the transformer first to see if it isn't damaged from being overloaded.

A simple way to test the transformer is to take a light and wire it up and see if the transformer works at all......if it doesn't light up one, then it probably is fried.

Diagnosing a lighting system is very time consuming and tedious work.........you never really know what is going or what has been done. Ask if the lighting system was ever changed after the first initial setup. Many people think you can just go ahead and 'throw' a few extra lights on to a existing system and not have any worries. If the system was maxed out to begin with, and then a few more lights were added on/higher wattage lamps were added, problems occur.

Many, many problems to be determined. As someone suggested, the first step should be to get a book/or get signed up for alighting class asap so you can at least get a grasp of the basics of low voltage lighting.

At this point, my best suggesting would be to get a experienced lighting guy involved to come in a take over. It's starting to sound like a real nightmare that you may not want to get involved in.

Last edited by PSUscaper : 05-23-2004 at 09:47 PM.
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