[HRLand]

What is the proper way of installing drip lines? The reason I ask is a customer had drip zones installed for areas we recently planted and they dug around the root balls of the trees to place the lines below grade. I thought the lines were laid on top of the soil.

[agla]

I have observed that many irrigation contractors prefer to use soaker type piping rather than emiter type irrigation when you ask for "drip irrigation". It seems that it is more to do with ease of installation and call backs than efficient watering, but I am cynical.

It makes much more sense to me to snap in an emiitter and 1/4" tubing exactly where you want it (and exactly how much water) for each plant rather than having a wet spot winding all through your beds.

Write up specifications for your subs.

[HRLand]

Thanks for the reply Agla. At this point though, my concern is with the way lines were installed.

[nylan]

Alga, what you are describing is xerigation or micro-irrigation not drip and yes it is much more efficient.

Drip irrigation is a tubing with "drip" holes spaced consistently the length of the tube. For example every 12 inch or every 18 inch's. It also allows a precise amount of water to drip out for example .6 gallons per hour. Netafim is THE brand name when it comes to drip irrigation.

It should be installed directly on top of the ground or can be mulched over.

[Daniel Hanson]

Originally posted by nylan
[b]. Netafim is THE brand name when it comes to drip irrigation.

[b]

Actually... Rain Bird's Landscape Drip line is way better than the Netafim tech line. It has a better internal emitter that is less likely to clog or grow bacteria or algae when it is burried. Rain Bird's entire line of Xerigation products is hands down the most comprehensive line of products on the market today. I have been using their drip products for over 15 years now and have had nothing but success with them.

[HRLand]

Is there any benefit to installing the line below grade and is it necessary to wrap each tree twice. Some trees have died from over-watering and I need to get the problem fixed before my whole job goes to hell.

[nylan]

Ford or Chevy

[Daniel Hanson]

Chevy of course... and Toyota and Isuzu as well

[NCSULandscaper]

we install all ours in the mulch layer, and also use micro-irrigation for shrub beds. I dont see the reason to water areas of the beds with no shrubs, its simple to run an emitter to a shrub. Our nursery area is set up with pot emitters as well, we pretty much use the same thing in the field.

[Inspired]

I'm not familiar with trees in NJ, but dieing from over watering has nothing to do with whether the tubing is buried or not buried.

The controller is probably programmed wrong.

[MountainShe]

Originally posted by nylan
Alga, what you are describing is xerigation or micro-irrigation not drip and yes it is much more efficient.

Drip irrigation is a tubing with "drip" holes spaced consistently the length of the tube. For example every 12 inch or every 18 inch's. It also allows a precise amount of water to drip out for example .6 gallons per hour. Netafim is THE brand name when it comes to drip irrigation.

It should be installed directly on top of the ground or can be mulched over.

No this is not correct, Drip irrigation is using 1/2" O.D. or 1/2"I.D. drip line for your main irrigation line throughout the area to be irrigated and then punching in whatever kind of drip irrigation emitters, micro-sprays or 1/4" feeder lines that you need from whatever company who makes the kind of drip parts you choose to use...off of that line.
Lazar line is just one of those many choices one has when designing a drip system and Lazar line is a small line that has,
not holes but micro slices cut by a laser into the 1/4" line at 6" or 12" spacing that only allow water out in one direction.
The answer to the thread starter's original question is:
Yes, underground drip can and is done but it does not make it a good thing just because others do it.
I find those lines get completely enveloped by the root balls of plants and trees within a few years and clog up making them useless.
Also gofers shrews and moles love to chew those lines up while using them as personal watering fountains in summer. In clay soil the become a drainage nightmare with the roots sitting in water and rotting .

[TrickyDick]

There is no good reason that I can see to bury drip lines except maybe in a flower garden or something without mulch where they will be obvious.

How many wraps on a tree depends on the type and size of the tree. A 6 inch tree might need 3 or 4 wraps. Like stated above...if they are being over watered it is because the system is on too long or too often. It has been wet enough.........

How is it these threads get picked up so long after they are dead?I was just thinking to myself...."HRLand is in NJ....way too early in the season to have planted trees, installed irrigation and had them die from it already..." so I looked at the date and realized that my dumb advice is probably not going to be helpful at this point. Oh well.

[HRLand]

I'm still glad to hear more responses. We ended up ripping out all the drip lines on that job back in December. Some trees were wrapped 4-5 times! I could barely fit it all in the bed of my pick-up.