I was at a local nursery today and they had a wide selection of shrubs that were 50% off. have about 3 or 4 locations in the yard where I want to plant some shrubs but was thinking I had to wait until spring. With this kind of sale I am now wondering if these can be planted in the fall and survive the winter. We live in Zone 5 and are looking at "Tiger Eyes" sumac, "Harry Lauders Walking Stick" and several others that are evergreens. Any advice on planting these in the fall?
If you get them in the ground and water the heck out of them you'll be fine. The most important thing is that you get the air voids out of he soil when you plant and that you continue to water as long as you reasonably can before things freeze up (especially the eergreens). Spring is better, but it is only the beginning of October.
Thanks for the replies; it looks like I will be stimulating the local economy in the morning.
Also, one other question if a may; what about a root stimulator, it was suggested by the sales person at the nursery. It sounds reasonable but in the fall would it be non-functional?
I'm not worried about planting perennials, deciduous shrubs/trees or needled evergreen shrubs or "tougher" evergreen trees, such as spruce (as long as they're not planted in an exposed, windy area).
But I am very weary of planting leafed evergreens (rhodys, hollies etc.), unless in a protective spot.
AND..do not plant Arborvitae at this time of year. (Guess how I learned that....Repeatedly.)
From purely anecdotal evidence I am also a proponent of using a product such as Superthrive when planting questionable plants now.
As I said, I can only speak anecdotally from personal experience. The first time I used it was when I planted over 100 shrubs of all types and 30 trees in late Nov./early December is a very exposed wind tunnel-like commercial site (where there was no irrigation)....and not one plant died. Perhaps it was just good luck. But I continue to use it now on plants/transplants that seem to have the odds stacked against them (lack of watering-- exposed site-- late-season--poor root system etc.). And we seem to have minimal loss.
Take that, for what it's worth.
Try some. You only need 1 tablespoon per 15 gallons of water.
Does superthrive work? I can never get beyond that wall of descriptive text.
I have heard mixed things about superthrive. Some love it and swear by it. I, personally, haven't looked into the science behind it, so I am totally neutral. It is kinda sad that people think fertilizer is a solution for all, yet have no understanding of its function.
Going back to the nursery plant topic, if you wish to plant the shrubs, etc. now, go ahead and do it. The ground will insulate the plant better than the container. The Wilt Pruf idea is a good one. It may even pay to wrap the evergreens with burlap for the first winter.
I second the recommendation to not plant arborvitae in the late fall. That cost me over $700 this spring, after I already learned the lesson once before.
The advice above about planting in the fall is accurate. I will caution you to take a good hard look at the tree or shrub you are buying. Some trees and shrubs have been through a beating and may be scraped, have broken branches, or be very pot bound. If you take a hard look at the plant and it looks ok and is not an arborvitae, I say go for it.
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As a father I was always aware that I was raising my sons to leave home, marry, establish families, and be men who could stand on their own two feet. We must fulfill our own destiny. I really wasn't concerned about what they might 'do' but I wanted them to 'be' good men.
- David Epps
Thanks for the help. I will lookup the "superthrive" see if it something I have access to and can get. It sounds like it is pretty concentrated (1 tablespoon per 15 gallons), I hope it comes in something smaller than a 55 gallon drum.
Again thanks for the help; it adds a degree of confidence to the job.
read this thread yesterday and been thinking about it.
I don't know what's wrong with Arborvitaes?....have planted hedge rows in the middle of November with no problems.
We do stress that watering must be maintained no less than twice a week...to once a week in December........we mulch to 3 inches, actualy fall is the only time we mulch to the full 3 inches.
Broadleaf evergreens are the only concern I have with fall planting.
A general rule of thumb for doing fall planting is that.......you have 2 rain seasons, spring and fall. Winter plants either go dormant or semidormant, yet still have root developement. So....you get the 3 seasons of root developement before summer heat and drought