[Malrex]

Hey all,

Figured I would write this in the homeowner section...since its for my home. I'm going to learn how to build a fence in a week or so and was just wondering if anyone had some tips while I research how to do it.

We just had a log home built and we have a bunch of extra wood panelings (tongue and groove) that usually go inside on the second story (1st story is all log). The wife and I figured we would build a fence out of it. I'm renting an auger (8" bit) and we plan to get 4x4 treated posts and some crossbeams. Then we plan to nail the tongue and groove to these supports and protect it with stain. I plan to put each post about 8 feet apart and dig about 2 feet deep or get the post to be about 1/3 in the ground. We plan to have the fence about 5' high. Was just going to throw some concrete and water into the hole and brace each post until it sets. One area is a little hilly and wondered if there were any tips for that to keep things level...and/or if I sound like I'm on the right track. Thanks for any responses.

[MLysiak]

If you are going to install the t&g to the cross pieces while in place, use an air nailer to fasten. then you wont have to beat the #$!! out of your framework you just leveled and plumbed also it is much easier for one person to install. Use coated nails so they dont bleed on your nice stain unless that is the look you want.

[Stonehenge]

The post holes sound shallow, but I don't know what the frost line is by you. We go at least 42" around here.

I see most fences follow the hills, so you could do that, or adjust the height of your panels to accommodate the change in elevation (though a 2' high fence going over a hill would look kinda funny).

[jshilan]

You need to go at least 3' down, especially since you are going to be 5'+ out of the ground. Be sure to layout your post locations before you rent the auger because digging a lot of post holes is no picnic. You should also make sure that you have a manual post hole digger to remove some of those pesky rocks that just won't come out. The next thing you must have is a 5' pry bars (I'm not sure of the real name) that is chiseled on one side and has a flat head on the other. This will help you loosen up rocks, especially the ones down low, and the other end is to tamp the soil back around the posts. The only time you really need concrete is around the gate posts since they get a lot of movement. Try a few each way and see what works best for you.

Depending on the look you want you can follow the hill making each section unique, step each section every 8' keeping the sections level but potentially leaving a lot of space below the fence on the low side allowing "fluffy" to escape with ease, or "rack" the sections which keeps the boards perpendicular to the ground and allows you to still follow the hill and keep "fluffy" safe.

The character "fluffy" is a fictional character and does not represent any animal living or deceased.

[synner]

San Angelo IIRC is the name of those fancy/heavy 5 foot digging bars.

[AZTLANLC]

If you are referring as auger to the stand alone unit don't, instead rent a dingo or a bobcat with an auger much faster and safer, also dig the holes 2 at the time.

[MrBill]

I built a 320 ft, 6 ft high fence last year using Cedar 10 ft. 4 x 4 posts with 3 rails (rough cut 1 x 6 cedar). Posts are 6 1/2 ft above ground, app. 40" deep. The 6 1/2 height is to help keep the coyote's out (also added 2 x 2 wire fencing on the outside "stapled" (chicken wire staples) to posts and rails. I used stainless steel screws instead of nails. You would probably need to pre-drill the T&G panels to use the ss screws as they are somewhat soft.

Post spacing - don't forget to include the width of the posts. If the rails are 8 ft. and posts 4 x 4 (3 1/2 x 3 1/2) you need to space the posts a MAX of 7 ft 8 1/2" apart (8 ft - 3 1/2"). Also, it can be a challenge to get the spacing exact when you place the post and back fill/tamp, therefore you may want to use closer space to give yourself some "slack".

Cement - Based my research, I believe cement can actually cause the posts to rot faster due to the lime. I used pea gravel especially for the gate posts. Some people even placed the posts inside pvc pipe to make it easier if you need to replace a post (I didn't go that far).

Leveling: After much trial and error, the best solution I found, was to place rods/poles at various locations along the fence line and marking my desired height (e.g. your 5 ft). Next tie string (can't remember name - construction stuff that can be stretched) at the marked height on one post. Extend the string to the next post and pull TIGHT and tie-off. This approach with give a straight/level line (tops) between the "marking" posts. I my case I was able to place one post (steel rod) at each end of a 100 ft run. Next you need to decide on the rail heights. Here again you can use the string tied to the first/last post after installed and mark the rail height on each post.

Stain - suggest that you use a pigmented stain as it lasts longer than clear stains. If you fence is large you may want to use a power sprayer. If you a sprayer, be careful which stain you select as some will not work well in sprayers (too main bubbles etc.).

Hope you don't find as many rocks as I did!!

Good luck!

[Malrex]

Thankyou all for the tips and tricks!! This is exactly what I wanted...like using the coated nails, being careful about the which stain I use for the sprayer, etc (borrowing a nail gun from the wife's uncle). I marked out the fence post with flags before I left on a mini vacation to visit the parents, and when I come back, I plan to auger the holes. Unfortanetely, doing alot of things at once at my house, which I won't get into, but the low down is I couldn't get a skid loader to do all the things I wanted and had to go with a kubota (the rental place has great prices). They basically have this one man auger thing that is huge, and is on wheels...I thought I would give it a try although I did want to use a skid steer with auger bit..oh well. Thanks again for all the tips (will go down 3'+ deep), I appreciate it. I'm excited to give this a whirl.