[Rowdy Rat]

First off, what a great site! I've been following along with this forum for several months now and am really impressed with what I've reads so far.

I am in the process of installing a paver deck around a concrete swimming pool and have a couple of questions I wanted to run by you folks before I procede any further.

1. I want to run the pavers out from the pool to within two feet of the pool fence. From two feet inside the fence to two feet outside, I want to use river rock. The elevation from the pool to the fence is sligtly sloped and may require that a "wall" (one block high - maybe 4"-6" at most above current grade) be installed to keep the elevation of the deck pavers level.

My question is how to terminate the pavers so that they wont move or shift after installation. I have read on this site that laying a concrete footer and mortaring the soldier course (and perhaps a one block high wall) in place is a possible solution. After the footer/wall/soldier course is installed, I can lay the base material between this course and the coping. If this is a viable solution, how deep/wide should the footer be (I live in south central Pennsylvania)?

2. From what I have read, I know that I need to keep the slope of the deck away from the pool; I have read anywhere from 1" every 4' to 1" every 10'. Can anyone offer a more definitive answer on this?

Would I make this measurement at the nearest point/outside radius (to the fence) or the farthest point/inside radius. The pool is freeform and isn't a constant distance from the fence.

3. I have read that there should be an expansion space between the pool coping and the deck pavers. Can anyone tell me whether this is true or not and if true, how large should that expansion space be?

Thanks in advance for any help that you can provide

Regards,

Stan

[PaverDrew]

Stan, you certainly have chosen a more advance project than most DIY's would consider.
1. There are edging systems available for this. Some are aluminum, others plastic. Both use 10" spikes to secure them to the base and prevent horizontal shift. Check with your paver retailer to see what they carry. As far as the mortared edge goes, I personally would tell you not to go that route. Paver systems are flexible, when you use a material as an edge that is not flexible (mortar/ concrete), the edge becomes more susceptible to fracture, which could lead to shift. Some guys use them. Here in Southeast VA I am seeing failure of mortared edges in two years, and we have very minimal freeze cycles and well draining soils.

2. Slope is vital, and 1" in 4' should be fine. 2% is ideal, and 1% a minimum. If you measure the slope from the futhest point from the fence, you will ensure the minimum slope all the way around, assuming the coping is level and the concrete is consistent as well. where there are shorter distances to the fence, your slope may be closer to 3%, but you can tweak it to make smoother transitions.

3. I have never been required to place an expansion joint in this situation, but the guys further north may deal with different situations.

Best of luck..

[Rowdy Rat]

Thanks for the feedback Drew... I certainly appreciate it.

Regards,

Stan