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04-24-2006, 02:42 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Apr 2006
USDA
Posts: 4
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yardage equasion..
i need to know how much topsoil in need for my yard and i need the yardage can anyone tell me how to figure this out, i got and area of 6500 sq ft and i want to put 4 inches of topsoil on it, how do i figure out the amout of yards i need for the job? thanks
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04-24-2006, 03:29 PM
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B&B Tree
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Join Date: Oct 2003
USDA
Posts: 805
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80.25 yards X 1.23 compaction factor =
98.7 yards.
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04-24-2006, 05:40 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Apr 2003
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,105
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Dale
I came to 97.71 yards and I couldn't figure out why we were so close to each other and yet not the same until used a different method of calculation. My formula was 6500 *.33/27 * 1.23=97.72. I guess Dale used 6500/27/12*1.23=98.7.
Shows what rounding off numbers can do but over this size of job 1 yard isn't worth quibbling about. 
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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - Beer in one hand - Nacho's in the other - body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming : Woo Hoo, what a ride!
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04-24-2006, 05:48 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Apr 2006
USDA
Posts: 4
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ok so whats the compaction factor for? when its topsoil
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04-24-2006, 06:05 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Apr 2003
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,105
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If you are just topdressing the lawn then I wouldn't worry about the compaction factor but if you are trying to bring the level up to a specific grade or fill planters, and you don't account for compaction of the soil you won't have enough soil. Soil is nice loose and fluffy when dumped off the truck but when you spread it, level it and then let the rain hit it; it loses the fluffiness and compacts. Different soils have different rates and it is not a hard and fast rule. In the area I work I use about 15% extra while it seems Dale uses about 23% extra. Sand and Gravel are a little different. Pea gravel is pretty much dead on but road course and sand I will tack on about 10% extra.
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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - Beer in one hand - Nacho's in the other - body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming : Woo Hoo, what a ride!
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04-24-2006, 07:16 PM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Aug 2005
USDA
Posts: 275
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believe it or not, but the phase of the moon has alot to do with excavation. Sometimes you will have plenty of dirt when digging something out, and sometimes you will not have enough to fill the same hole in.
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04-24-2006, 09:38 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Highland, NY
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 399
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Most of my jobs I don't have to be 100% accurate so the formula I use is this.
Area X Inches / 300 = Yds. required
This works pretty good for me for mulch and top soil.
Area x inches after compaction / 240 = Yds. required for aggreaate base material
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04-24-2006, 11:04 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 7,566
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Here's a perfect example - today we removed three trees from a clients yard for transplanting at another site. After the over-excavation needed to get a good rootball, we removed the trees (with rootball). Roughly 16-20" diameter, 12-16" deep (varied by tree).
Even with the soil that came out with the tree, when we pushed the over-excavated loose soils back into the hole, there was a mound where the hole used to be - there was "too much" soil.
That's the "fluff factor" discussed above - in time those soils will settle. But as Dan mentioned, if it's a simple topdressing, that doesn't really apply.
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04-24-2006, 11:48 PM
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Ranger
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Southwest ct
USDA Zone 6
Posts: 1,743
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Stonehenge Brickpaving and Horticultural Services
I like it!
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