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02-21-2003, 10:21 PM
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Location: Wisconsin
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Anyone ever run a 10" blade in their cutoff saws?
I've been wanting to try this - unfortunately, most 10" blades are made more for tile saws, and they have a triangular arbor. Probably to ensure that guys like me don't stick them on a big gas saw at 5,400 RPM.... 
Anyway, as I'm sure you all know, the smaller the diameter of the blade, the tighter the turn you can make when cutting on the paved surface. I think 10" would work best: Radius of 5", take off 2" for the arbor guard and you have 3" left, which will get you through most pavers, from Brussels to econo Hollandstone.
Anyone give it a try before? Are the 10" blades cut out for our brand of punishment? |
02-22-2003, 08:30 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Feb 2003
USDA
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Be sure to use a Laser Welded Blade while performing any Circus Acts as you are explaining............Careful................
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Joe Wizard.......
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02-23-2003, 04:08 PM
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"Circus Acts?" I have been known to do a few things that have the potential to make me a one-handed typist, but for this I just want to do some efficient cutting and not mar the base prep while doing so. A 12" blade is a good solution, but if a rookie isn't paying attention, he can stick the full 4" of exposed blade into the base while cutting, resulting in a weak spot near the perimeter where a soldier course will likely tip inward in time.
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02-23-2003, 08:06 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Feb 2003
USDA
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I was only kidding about the "Circus Act", although I have heard a few stories..LOL... The advantage of using a 12" blade, is that your radius will still look like a radius after you get down cutting through. The 10" blade would have to cut all the way through using its full depth and you might get alot of straight looking cuts rather than a slight curve...Another option after cutting your pavers, is a "4" Tseg cup grinder"...Every contractor should have one.
Contact me via email or PM if you want more info.
One more way to make your radius take true form, is to score each brick with a 4"or 7" blade then cut them individually on the table saw. This I have heard from many guys doind this type of work. Good Luck......
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Joe Wizard.......
Last edited by Stonehenge : 02-23-2003 at 09:21 PM.
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02-23-2003, 08:12 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Feb 2003
USDA
Posts: 106
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CUP WHEELS..............
Here is a pic of a TSEG cup and a SINGLE row cup....They come in 7" too....
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Joe Wizard.......
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02-23-2003, 08:13 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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TSEG CUP.....
A great addition for your tool box.......
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Joe Wizard.......
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02-23-2003, 09:39 PM
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I used to cut each paver on a tub saw, but it ends up adding way too much time to a project.
In fact, I went out to buy a second tub saw a few years ago - went to pick it up, left 4 guys on site working on patio. When I returned, all 4 were cutting on the tub saw! One guy was cutting, 3 others standing in line, paver in hand. Nobody could think of anything else that needed to be done...
The meds they gave me for the stroke I had shortly afterward seemed to help quite a bit. 
We now use handhelds for the vast majority of cuts, tub saws for the funky cuts. (And I do occasionally take on some 'acrobatics' - saw on ground, throttle in one hand, paver in other, grinding off tiny bits of brick. Also have a few scrapes on my workboots where blade ground a bit of the boot off.  )
Last edited by Stonehenge : 02-23-2003 at 09:42 PM.
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02-23-2003, 09:43 PM
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Ranger
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago
USDA Zone 5
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That was before PS* 
He did see the light after that.
*= Partner Saw
We have a couple of cup wheels that you pictured, we use the 4" size that fit a electric grinder, they come in very handy! |
02-23-2003, 10:19 PM
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The Partners are nice - we've got a Stihl TS400 that's as old as the business - still runs, but we don't use it much. Among other things, the vibration will numb fingers for days if you use the saw long enough. The Partner's anti-vibe is great, and there's lots of power. Great saw - maybe I should start a thread on favorite saws...
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02-24-2003, 01:42 PM
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B&B Tree
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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Cutting into the base has never caused me much concern, a quick lick with your fingers or a trowel fixes that up in a hurry. A 10" blade would come in handy for tight inside curves but we try to avoid designing these in the first place so we stick with 12 and 14 inch. Actually last year I don't even think I put the 12" on the saw, some times it's just quicker to one at a time the few tight insides.
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Blair Deutekom 
Alfresco Landscape Group Ltd
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03-03-2003, 08:10 AM
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Really? I find that 12" is nice for getting around those curves much nicer than the 14" or 16".
And for most of the bases we prepare (no sand), wrecking 1/2" of base is more of a problem for us.
Joe's right about the full cutting depth problem is I used a 10" - still wouldn't mind trying.  |
03-03-2003, 01:24 PM
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B&B Tree
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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I find the 14's cut faster than the 12's. When ever possible we don't design with tight insides. I do carry a 12", just try to avoid situations where I have to use it. 14" works great on outsides greater than 8' radius.
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Blair Deutekom
Alfresco Landscape Group Ltd
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