Ground Trades Xchange - a landscaping forum

Go Back   Ground Trades Xchange - a landscaping forum > Landscape Services > Hardscaping
Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read



Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2010, 03:36 PM
Mitchell Landscapes's Avatar
Acorn
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
USDA Zone 9
Posts: 32
Mitchell Landscapes is on a distinguished road
What type of mortar is best for stonework

Sorry posted this first in the wrong category -

Done lots of dry stacked stone work and only a few mortar jobs - Any thoughts on the best type of mortar to use with mortar set stones? Type N? TypeS? favorite recipe of sand, portland and lime? any difference between doing flat work (vineer) versus full stone construction? Any input would be appreciated.
__________________
Dale Mitchell
Greensboro NC
MitchellLandscapes.com
Dale@mitchelllandscapes.com
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2010, 08:32 PM
Fine Edge's Avatar
Wise Old Oak
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Monroe, NC
USDA Zone 8
Posts: 1,681
Fine Edge is just really nice Fine Edge is just really nice Fine Edge is just really nice Fine Edge is just really nice Fine Edge is just really nice
We use type S and never have a problem.
__________________
Dave
www.fineedgedesign.com
www.charlottepaverpatio.com

Twitter: @FineEdgeDesign
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2010, 08:47 PM
Squizzy Taylor's Avatar
Gold Oak Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
USDA
Posts: 326
Squizzy Taylor is on a distinguished road
Our mortar standard system over here is a little different but our mix for stonework is 1.1.6 (OPC.Hydrated Lime.Sand) however for really fine work or restoration its more often 1.2.7 with the lime being lime putty. It depends a little on the application.

There is absolutely no point the mortar being stronger than the stone. The addition of lime will tend to make the mortar more workable, stickier for better adhesion and more breathable. When building a mortared wall I'm always trying to make the stonework just like in dry-stack, such that if the mortar wasn't there the wall would still do its job.

Be very careful of those "brickies" cements claiming to already have lime added. They tend to produce strong brittle mortars and in our hot dry climate you get lots of shrinkage cracks. This is because the stronger mortars retain more moisture...or rather release it slower.

For adhering veneers I will use a stronger mix...it depends on the type of stone...and more often than not tile glues are being used these days.
__________________
Regards Squizzy
South of the River - Perth Western Australia

Three essentials to happiness in life are something to do, something to love, and something to hope for.
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2010, 12:10 PM
Gold Oak Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 789
johnkeegan will become famous soon enough
Quote:
For adhering veneers I will use a stronger mix...it depends on the type of stone...and more often than not tile glues are being used these days.
I'm mostly experienced with dry laid walls, as well. But I've often wondered why not just use adhesive on the veneer work if you are working with a consistant (not irregular) foundation.

We can get most any stone in a venneer form now (I'm talking "real" stone not "pseudo-stone").. with premade corners etc. ... So it would seem easier to just use adhesive, especially if you wanted a "dry laid look."
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2010, 08:02 PM
mountainx's Avatar
Seedling
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Waynesville, NC
USDA Zone 6
Posts: 91
mountainx is on a distinguished road
I've had some masons tell me they use type N for veneer work because it's supposed to be 'stickier'. We have used both types for multiple applications and had no issues.
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2010, 08:49 PM
Squizzy Taylor's Avatar
Gold Oak Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
USDA
Posts: 326
Squizzy Taylor is on a distinguished road
This what I use for sandstone cladding and water features:

ParexDavco: Australia
__________________
Regards Squizzy
South of the River - Perth Western Australia

Three essentials to happiness in life are something to do, something to love, and something to hope for.
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2010, 11:03 PM
Seedling
 
Join Date: May 2009
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 83
mybigdog1 is on a distinguished road
If its a small area try using thin set with a fortifier it works great and is real sticky, Type N also is sticky as said before and a lot cheaper than thin set. Type s can be used but is a lot harder to work with
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2010, 06:42 PM
Gold Oak Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: raleigh, nc
USDA Zone 8
Posts: 282
natural12 is on a distinguished road
Type S. Flat work 3:1. Veneer if we need it a little stickier a little less sand or add some portland. Portland helps the mortar set up a little quicker.
__________________
Mike
http://www.natural-designs.com
Reply With Quote
Reply





Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Free Landscaping Magazines
Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What type of mortar is best for stonework Mitchell Landscapes Hardscaping 0 05-08-2010 12:57 PM
Gator Dust vs Mortar Color robbenson Homeowner Help 4 05-07-2010 07:30 PM
best mortar type fakie99 Hardscaping 2 03-22-2007 06:44 PM
Change mortar color in joints ??????? LerchBros Hardscaping 6 03-08-2007 09:01 PM
Flagstone joints. Mortar or poly sand? Keith N Hardscaping 2 09-24-2006 11:06 AM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:33 PM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2
Copyright 2003-2013 Ground Trades Xchange, LLC