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07-05-2009, 05:07 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Mar 2009
USDA Zone 10
Posts: 12
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Grading Techniques
Hi everyone. New to this site, so far it seems that there are a lot of intelligent people on here. Which is weird since most of the landscapers I've come across can't tell a roll of sod from a skid of lockstone.
Anyways I was just curious as to the grading techniques that some of you use. Personally I swear by strings, pegs and a screed board or level, but I know a lot of people out there use the rails. I know that people say that rails are faster and that almost anybody can do the grading once the rails are in, but isn't it a bit cumbersome to be carrying all of that equipment around.
I have never used the rails, since I was taught the string and peg method and continued using it when I started my own business. I just can't see the advantage to it. You always have the voids left over to fill in, and what about steep grade changes or say a 200 foot long driveway. That is a lot of pipe needed not to mention the hassle of place them all at the correct elevation.
I know that the string method is more labour intensive when it comes to the grading process but in my opinion easier to install and more precise. I'm not looking to bash on anyone's techniques here, just trying to get a somewhat reasonable discussion regarding the different methods.
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07-05-2009, 07:02 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Highland, NY
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 534
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Well 3/4" steel conduit is what I prefer for all patios and walkways for a driveway we basically grade with the skid steer stakes and laser.
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"Any husband making shape and color decisions has to show written consent from wife" no exceptions
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07-05-2009, 07:59 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eastern Ontario
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 124
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We use screed rails, 3/4" and laser level. Few straight boards of different lenghts and thats about it. Our cargo trailer carries all the tools we need, I think we have about 400' of rails in there. Its been very effective for our crews to use this method. Your method sounds like it works just as well, but as long as your final grade looks good then I say stick with what ever works.
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07-05-2009, 08:24 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Apr 2003
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,444
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I go both ways depending on the situation. Most patios I like to use the rails but for walkways it is usually a grade rake and the transit. Driveways are usually the skidsteer and transit with the grade rake for touch up. Quite often it is a combination of both methods. Rails are great for simple grades but you can't beat a good eye and a 3' grade rake when getting into multiple grade changes.
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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - Beer in one hand - Nacho's in the other - body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming : Woo Hoo, what a ride!
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07-05-2009, 10:10 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Mar 2009
USDA Zone 10
Posts: 12
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the only time i use a grade rake is for prepping sod, its good old fashioned hands and knees work when we do our grading.
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07-06-2009, 07:29 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Apr 2003
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klaf
the only time i use a grade rake is for prepping sod, its good old fashioned hands and knees work when we do our grading.
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When I use a grade rake I am on my hands and knees and belly a lot so that I can see any dips or humps 
__________________
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - Beer in one hand - Nacho's in the other - body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming : Woo Hoo, what a ride!
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07-06-2009, 10:29 AM
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Whip
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Join Date: May 2006
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 370
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I use 1" OD steel conduit pipe for screeding. Used to use a board, but switched to the smooth side of my landscape rake to save bending over.
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07-07-2009, 11:13 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eastern Ontario
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raj Venugopal
I use 1" OD steel conduit pipe for screeding. Used to use a board, but switched to the smooth side of my landscape rake to save bending over.
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Thats ok when the rails are 2 or 3' apart, what about 8 to 10' apart. I'd like to see that rake!
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07-07-2009, 12:08 PM
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Whip
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Join Date: May 2006
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eastern1
Thats ok when the rails are 2 or 3' apart, what about 8 to 10' apart. I'd like to see that rake!
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I just lay down a number of rails, making sure they're level and properly pitched. Can you imagine what kind of arms someone pulling an 8' screeding rake would like like?
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07-07-2009, 07:31 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Highland, NY
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 534
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I made my own 6' screed rake and set my conduit about 5' apart I have tried with a 9' rake but it's much harder so 6' works for me
__________________
"Any husband making shape and color decisions has to show written consent from wife" no exceptions
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07-07-2009, 09:04 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Mar 2003
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 439
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We use pipes and magnesium screed boards. For odd size work we use a 2" x 4" and cut it to length. On the narrow stuff we use the upside down grade rake method. I gave up on the string and peg method about 1990.
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Facts just twist the truth around
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07-07-2009, 09:19 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eastern Ontario
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 124
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I remember in 1985 to be exact I used to lay down a 4" x 4" piece of wood and screed across that with a 2" x 4". Man there was alot of base to add when we took out the 4" x 4". Didn't take me long to figure there had to be a better way!
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07-13-2009, 03:11 PM
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Whip
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Join Date: May 2006
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 370
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Anyone ever use two layers of geotex; one on the sub-base, the other under the screed? Any benefits in terms of preventing filtration of the fines?
Just wondering.
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