[Will Pacala]

I have seen many landscape contractors in my area offer paving as one of their services. Do you think this is a good idea or not? I don't offer paving. Too time consuming and costly. What are your views on the subject?

[Paul]

It's cheap, fast, and can be a money maker, but here too many people do it too cheap.

[Will Pacala]

Yes I agree. You also need a large paver, large roller, and a trailer that can accomodate that equipment. I would stay away from it.

[Will Pacala]

One more thing. Is it smart to sub-contract out and have someone else do it? Or do I politely suggest the use of pavers for a driveway. Thanks

[Stonehenge]

Boy, you'd think I got this one served up just for me.....

If you offer pavers, you can also use asphalt, make a more durable driveway, and do it for much less money.

Start by marking out 1' beyond where the pavers will go - then have an asphalt co you trust install a 2" binder course, at an elevation of finish grade - (pavers + 1/2").

When that's done, bring in coarse sand, screed off about 3/4", and lay your pavers.

An experienced crew will be able to install 1,000 sq ft in a day. You can charge 25-30% less than usual for a driveway, and still make the same money you would installing the usual way.

[Will Pacala]

Good idea I'll try to remember that next time.

[PSUscaper]

Hey,

in the recent edition of Landscape Contractor National magazine, they have a small right up on how to install pavers on asphalt and how to set edging.

I think the idea is starting to catch on Stone!

steve

[Stonehenge]

Cool! Check the source on that article - my supplier that got me started in this said they met with a big LA firm in Chicago that was impressed with the durability of this method of install, and wanted to work with it a bit.

I'd be interested if the trail of breadcrumbs leads back to them.

[Nek]

Hey Stone--- So basically the asphalt is your base???? Im in the market for a paver drive and this sounds like a financially reasonable alternative. What type of prep work is 'under' the asphalt???

[Stonehenge]

We let the asphalt company prep the base as they would any other vehicular pavement. For them this means 6-7" of 3/4"-. After that the 2" of binder course is laid. If unfamiliar, or if the lingo is different in another part of the country (as it often is), a binder course is what is often used as a first layer of asphalt for parking lots or roadways - it uses much larger stone in it's mix, and has a less 'finished' look to it once it's been rolled, because of the larger stone. But it is also much tougher and more durable. We had a really hard time driving spikes through the stuff when it came time for edge restraint. We had 3 guys on sledgehammers trying to drive the spikes after awhile.

I'll be installing about 4,000 sq ft at my own home sometime in the next 12-24 months, and will use this method.

[Nek]

Thanks Stone. What would you say the cost savings is vs. regular paver installation??

[Stonehenge]

Cost savings to the client - I started at 25-30%, but I have decreased their savings, mainly because I want more money for our work.

As for costs for an installer, It should cost somewhere between $1 - $1.50 per sqft for asphalt prep and lay. Other than the cost of the pavers, your remaining costs should be that of labor ($ per sq ft will depend on the project and the proficiency of the labor), sand, edge restraint, and any clean up or touch up you choose to do.

For us, we could install a 1,000 sqft driveway for $3,500 in direct costs to me (materials, labor, asphalt sub), and I would charge the client anywhere from $8K to $12K. $8K would be the generous price.

[CountyMaterials]

To back up what Stonehenge is saying and explain about that Chicago LA thing. There was a house in the area here that had a large paver driveway put in with the blacktop base by a contractor of mine. The VERY NEXT DAY the house ($1.5 million house) was hit by lightning and burned to the ground. The clean up crew came with their big backhoes and excavators to take everything away. They were all over the blacktop going back and forth and there was no sign of any dips or ruts on the base. With the normal stone base that driveway would be messed up.

Stonehenge was the first one in our area to do this. Props go to him for checking it all out with an old Professor of his that studies or has bigtime experience with blacktop or sub-bases or something like that, I forget exactly what it is. I helped a fellow employee do his driveway this way (Jeff - it was Chris) and we had to pre-drill holes into the blacktop to stake the edging in cause the stakes were bending when we tried to pound them in!!
I helped cause I wanted to see this process in action and to see it for myself cause I had doubts initially. After driving the skidsteer on it and twisting and turning and NOTHING happening to the base, I was convinced. I'd imagine that all you guys would love going to a job site that the base is already level for you, all you have to is screed some sand or screenings (depending on which method you subscribe to) and away you go.

Back to Chicago LA thing. He told the contractor that he wanted to know how the base was done because he had never seen such a well put together base. He even asked the contractor to come to Chicago to start doing these types drives for him.

Oh yeah, one of the big advantages with this too is that you can do this during the winter, assuming no snow. If the client is willing to have you put the base in during the summer, they still have a fully functional driveway. Expect for the +/- 2 3/4" lip. You can install the pavers when you have time.