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10-26-2003, 08:19 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Highland, NY
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 382
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A little (lot) about me and a question
I have read a lot in this forum in the last couple of days, so much information that my brain is going crazy, I don't have a degree nor even finished college but I like this work so much, I love doing hardscape, I have being doing this for the last 9 years, after a month that I arrive from mexico, without even speaking the leanguage. My former boss retired three years ago and bought the business from him, wasn't a real big business tough, when I started working for him he's son was on the boat, and he was in the landscape department, that's who I learned the hardscape part from, then he moved to another state and we only did lawn maintenance, with some small landscaping projects here and there, but since I took over the company I've come to realize that I don't like mowing lawns anymore, I hired couple of guys and they're doing most of the mowing now, I mainly focus on softscape and hardscape, during the winter months I attend to some classes in college, (not last winter tought, due to the high amount of snow) this year has being real good for me, before I use to spend couple of days a week doing landscaping, now is mostly every day unless it rains and my guys are getting behind with the mowing, I have done about 8 walks so far this year and lot's of retaining walls, and installs I know 8 walkways are such a tiny number compared to some of you guys, but for me is a lot, most of the technics I use I learned from my former boss son's, but after all this time reading books and this and other forums I've come to realize that there's so much more than digging, prepare the base, and lay the pavers, reading trought all the specifications you guys have I cans understand better as to why the things are done certain ways, but I still not confident to take on bigger jobs, I have sub couple of them because I know I don't have the knowledge yet and it bothers me being that I like this job so much, I'll do wherever I need to become a Jeff, paul, Rex, Lannelle, BRL and other words a true profesional.
Sorry for the long post but I just want you guys to have an idea of why you'll be reading so dumb questions on my part.
Here is one.
What's the best method you guys have found is the fastest, easier or both to screed.
This is the way I've being doing it for the past couple years.
After I have my base then I put 1" pipes and screed my stone dust (I know I'll get yell at for this but around here the quality of the sand is just awful) then lay the paver and finally put the edging, this is where my real question begins, Do you guys use the paver restrain edging to screed?
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"Any husband making shape and color decisions has to show written consent from wife" no exceptions
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10-26-2003, 08:36 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
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We don't use paver restraint as a guide for screeding. We use 1" EMT conduit (sounds like you do, too). Because we use a compactable bedding layer (stone screenings), we still compact even after we lay our pipe.
So after we lay pipe, we usually screed, then compact, 3 - 5 times before we pull the pipe, fill in the pipe lines and begin laying pavers.
Don't worry about not knowing all the answers - that's why this site was built in the first place. None of us have all the answers individually, but collectively I don't think there aren't very many things we can't figure out.
And I applaud your using the internet for your research in a non-native language. With all of the typos I have in my posts, I'm amazed that people who grew up speaking English understand me. (And I helped set up the Spanish speaking department at a local insurance company, so I understand how hard this kind of research can be.) It takes guts to make a go of it, even when you speak the language fluently.
I look forward to lots of questions, and will do what I can to provide as much info as I can.
Good luck,
Jeff
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10-26-2003, 09:07 PM
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Ranger
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,557
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Don't be afraid of doing bigger job, try to think of a bigger job as a couple of smaller ones.
We are all here to learn. I don't know everything, but I'm willing to learn.
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10-26-2003, 10:06 PM
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B&B Tree
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: LaGrangeville, N.Y.
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 867
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AZTLANLC, I have to say I'm impressed with your grasp of English. After only 9 years of being exposed to it you use it better than many who are born and raised here. If this is an indication of your learning abilities, you are bound to be successful in business.
I put my edging down first, I use Snap-Edge exclusively. Then I use 3/4" conduit (1"od) as a guage for the sand. After laying the body of the walk or patio, I use a neat little tool I got from Pave Tech to mark the bricks for cutting. You set the tool to the width of your soldier course and it then rides on the snap-edge to mark the pavers for your soldiers. It has sped up my cutting by at least 50%.
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10-26-2003, 10:30 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Highland, NY
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 382
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Thanks for all the responses and your support.
Hey Pelican, I've seen your trucks around I also went to H.o penn to look for a cat based on your recommendation from other forum I really liked the machine but it was kind of far for me being that I'm on the other side of the river, (highland) I went with Bobcat instead because I couldn't buy all the attachmnet to beging with and they have so many for rent.
Where is a good source to get the snap edge, and also where can I get the tool your talking about for marking up the pavers.
one more questions
Is there any special tool for screeding that you use.
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"Any husband making shape and color decisions has to show written consent from wife" no exceptions
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10-26-2003, 10:38 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Highland, NY
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Posts: 382
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Paul, the reason I'm afraid doing bigger jobs is cause I haven't mastered the small ones yet, I still have some flaws here and there and lately a 200 sqf walk took me 4 days to complete me and other guy, it had lots of cuts and some steps tough, but most is due to the fact that I want my work to look as profesional as yours and takes a lot of time.
I look at you guys is my mentors, every time I see a photo or read a post from you I learn something new, thanks for putting your time and knowledge in this forum, I'm sure that me and lot's of people appreciate this.
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"Any husband making shape and color decisions has to show written consent from wife" no exceptions
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10-26-2003, 10:41 PM
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Ranger
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,557
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Heres a picture of the marker we use.
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10-26-2003, 10:42 PM
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Ranger
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,557
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You can order it thru your Unilock dealer or www.Pavetech.com
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10-26-2003, 10:47 PM
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B&B Tree
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: LaGrangeville, N.Y.
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 867
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Uh oh, new competition!
You can see the tool I use
here.
I buy my snap edge from Unilock, they'll discount quantities.
What I've done is cut 2x6 lumber to different lengths to screed with using the 3/4" conduit I posted earlier. I've looked at the tools available from Pave Tech for screeding and while they'd be nice to have, they're a bit pricey.
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10-26-2003, 11:04 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Highland, NY
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 382
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I'll chek with my unilock dealer to order one
[quote] Originally posted by Pelican
[b]Uh oh, new competition!
Not even close
Actually I have a guy that wants a retaining wall, I think is out of my league, if you think you're interested PM me
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"Any husband making shape and color decisions has to show written consent from wife" no exceptions
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10-27-2003, 07:24 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
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for screeding, we either use a 2x4, or an aluminum screed board. The aluminum is about $10/ft.
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06-08-2005, 04:01 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Highland, NY
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 382
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I was searching on the web for something and one of the results was this tread, one of my very first posts, I have learned so much thanks to this forum and ICPI, that brought some nice memories, thank you Paul, Pelican, Stone, Lanelle, Bill, Rex, Joe, jwholden, Agla and all those people in this forum who have help made my business succeed, answering questions and having the time to share so much knowledge.
Now I feel confident to take most any project size, and call myself a professional.
To answer my own question posted many moon ago this is how I do my screeding now.
For a curve walk I have found that is faster to install the edge restrain and use it as screeding guide for the sand, for a larger patio or straight walk I use the conduit pipe but have made my own sandpuller, I had a regular landscape rake at my shop that was in pretty bad shape, the handle was in mint condition so I bough an aluminum L shape board (I'm not 100% sure about the name) and replaced the teeth with that I cut it to 5' and it has served as a nice rake also to spread the base, you'll get a more even results with it also, now I have like 3 different sizes and one that is 4'5" that is notched and I special use that one with the edge retrain method, here is a picture of my screed.
I have to add that the total cost fo this wa $10.00 since I already had the handle for the rake, the other were between $50 and $60 buying new rakes, I just recently found a new site whey the sell just the handles I'll post the link when I find it.
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"Any husband making shape and color decisions has to show written consent from wife" no exceptions
Last edited by AZTLANLC : 06-08-2005 at 04:14 PM.
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06-09-2005, 06:14 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Mar 2003
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 407
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Funny that you post that picture AZTLANLC. I have been thinking about making the exact same rake, but in a 6' version for light screeding. Where did you buy the aluminum?
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Facts just twist the truth around
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06-09-2005, 08:26 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Jun 2005
USDA
Posts: 52
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We use an oak screeder beveled on two sides similar to the screeder pic posted above, heights set by a string line grid. It's the European method and we have our screeders custom made by a cabinet shop. After screeding out our sand we wet down the bed, compact then fluff. This method requires patience and true skill. For our newer guys who've relied on screed poles and straight edges we accommodate them by supplying those tools but take every opportunity to train with our screeders.
For edge restraints we install a steel-reinforced concrete toe curb that's set below grade. (See driveway)
For cuts, I'm sure our method is not exclusive, we lay out the walk/patio/drive and score the curve with a concrete saw, cut the pavers and lay the soldier course or runner. (See walkway)
I've had over 16 years experience in construction, 12 as a project manager/estimator for a heavy highway, road contractor building retaining walls (the big'ns) and installation of pavers for city/state projects. That experience in no way prepared me for the residential market and I learn every day new, and sometimes better, methods of installation. During my spare time (ha!) I make a point to educate myself on the new products available and attend as many manufacturer's seminars as possible. Don't be afraid of the big jobs, its like doing 10 small jobs in one convenient location.
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Petra
Stone Art, Inc.
www.789pave.com
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06-09-2005, 08:32 AM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Jun 2005
USDA
Posts: 52
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oops! 
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Petra
Stone Art, Inc.
www.789pave.com
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