[gate]

I will be removing an existing wood deck that is 8" below the first floor of my house. I will be having a new patio installed. I have an existing inground pool and I would like to install the pavers on top of the existing metal coping of the pool which would bring the patio 2 3/4" higher than my existing deck is. I will also be 2 3/4" higher at the house than I was with the deck. The existing deck currently slides just under the metal pool coping. I don't want to slide the pavers under the coping or be even with the coping, I don't want to see the coping at all. My issue is with the base layer and pavers being higer than my existing house foundation and above the vinyl siding. should I build a cmu wall in front of the foundation? what about water damage to the house due to infiltration. Any suggestions would be greatly appreicated.

[mnglandscaper]

Yes, water against the foundation is going to be bad. ICPI recommends that you tar the bricks or put some kind of water proof pad against the wall. I haven't run into that situation before in my installations, but water is always a major concern. You may have to remove a layer of siding so that you can expose wall to be sealed.

[gate]

I will definitely install some sort of flashing up behind the existing siding, but my finish grade of the pavers will be higher than my existing mud-sill of the house. Should a CMU wall be built along side the foundation wall and above the mud-sill so that the base material is not being packed against the house? How should I flash this the right way?

[agla]

What is the distance from the house to the pool?

[Fine Edge]

That situation calls for extra careful grading to try and get the water away from the pool AND away from the house. Sometimes a drain in the patio is needed while other times the distances can be worked with to create enough pitch. Either way, I would not bring my pavers as high as you propose and still tar the foundation and add some type of drainage against the house. Better to err on the good side.
It seems we have run into multiple pitch situations 5 or 6 times over the last couple of years and have finally realized to price accordingly.

[gate]

The distance to the pool from the house is roughly 20'-0"
I don't see how I can be lower than what I am proposing unless I
slope the bullnose coping paver (which is 12" long) dramatically in order
to stay at the level of where my existing deck is and then go from there.
I might be better off building a cmu wall against the foundation and flash behind the existing vinyl siding. HELP.

[gate]

So, the plan is to build a CMU wall in front of my existing foundation wall
to a height slightly above the existing mudsill of the house.

I plan on removing a portion of the existing vinyl siding, install ice & water shield protection (the same stuff they use for the first 3 feet in roof installations) against the house down past the mudsill, install aluminum flashing 12" down past the mudsill, build CMU wall (should I seal this too?), counter flash with aluminum "L" so that it overlaps CMU, install base and pavers, and then re-install the vinyl siding, then I'll wait a year or so with my fingers crossed and hope that all the above work actually didn't waste my time or cause any damage to my home and my wallet.

My installer says we'll "work it out" and I'm sure "we" will, but I want to have a clear plan that makes sense before we're out there working it out.

Does anyone have any more ideas or a better plan besides lowering the level of the patio (which is not an option)?

[4seasons]

Why use pavers on the metal coping? Why not "jazz" it up a bit with a different material that would be thinner. Use the different material as an edge all the way around the patio and maybe some in the patio itself.
As for sealing the wall--
rubber "like used for flatroof applications" glued to the wall works better anyday than iceguard. Plus you could take it down past the mudsill better also. Then I think you would only need to flash over the wall- just leave enough room for movement.
You still need to address the waterissue and how to getrid of it off the patio itself.
there needsto be a slight pitch to move the water.

[4seasons]

Sorry didn't read thoroughly, If you seal everything tight with the rubber you shouldn't need the wall.

[gate]

I like the rubber membrane idea. As for the coping material, I will be using a bullnose type weathered edger. I feel better about using this thicker (2 3/4") material because I think it would withstand a lot more abuse (people sitting, jumping in and getting out of the pool. I will be using Stonehenge pavers by Unilock everywhere else (3 different sizes) color: coffee creek with 6 x 6 granite colored edgers.

Since I'll be slightly higer than my existing foundation wall, I figured it would be best as a safety precaution to build CMU wall so that I wouldn't be compacting against the wood structure of the house and run the risk of possible damage.

Yes, I will definitely be pitching away from the house.