[VoodooChile]

How many of you guys are comfortable screeding base with a machine, Dingo, skid-ster, snowplow, whatever, just so long as you aren't putzing with pipe and dragging boards full of base off a cliff for eternity?

I saw it done once on a 10000 s.f. driveway, one guy in a skid-ster, and one guy with a compactor. They may have had a tape-measure, but I never saw it. The drive turned out fine, 2 years later still intact with no settling and good drainage. It tied into multiple set grades-- concrete aprons, flagstone walks, existing swales-- just fine.

I've posted a poll to help.

Thanks!

[James Mugrage]

I've freehanded or eyeballed small areas before but I just hate the idea of guessing that my base is correct. I much rather take the time to screed and know for a fact that my base is set just right instead of freestyling and hoping that everything turns out fine. One of the methods that I employ to speed up my screeding is : 1). I will compact my base until it is close to the desired depth then right when we are about 2" down from the finished height of our base we will stop compacting until we have set our pipes at the exact height that we want. 2). We then will screed the softer uncompacted base. Upon completion of screeding pull up your pipes and compact. 3). Keep in mind that your base will compact down so take this into consideration when setting your pipes. I don't know if this will help you or not, but thats all I have on this issue.

james

[chesie]

With a Skid Steer no. But I have done large areas with our mini-x blade and they have turned out as perfect as with screeding. As long as you have a large enough area it can be done fine. The skid steer is much too bumpy to get a "perfect" job.

It takes time and patience (and maybe a little skill) but it sure beats screeding by hand.

[dan deutekom]

I will do a large area such as a driveway by machine but we do a lot of checking with the transit. You also have to have a skilled operator with a good eye. It certainly isn't a job for a newbie operator. I find that as long as you have some set grades to work to it turns out just fine.

[johnkeegan]

We machine screed the base with our ASV RC30 compact track loader. But it has a VERY light footprint. Machine tamp in 2-3" lifts and shoot multiple laser grade heights.

[Green4Me]

I have been looking for a laser guided screeding attachment for my Dingo, that is tied into the hydralics of my machine. Anyone know of an equipment supplier who does this.

This type of tool is common on road graders, dozers and excavators, and I am hoping someone has developed one for a Dingo.

[Matt Kulp]

We never screed base, except for the last 1", we go over just to touch up everything with a straight edge. We use a combination of the laser to get grade stakes set and then start stringing lines. We check the lines after every lift. For large jobs, we use the skidloader to get everything within 2-3". The issue is that your compactor has to be big enough to handle more then 2" lifts. If we were only doing 2" lifts, then you would have to go completely to string lines and man power.

[lasting impress]

We use the same method for big and small areas. We mark the desired heigth in various areas, and compact our base in 2-3" lifts. In larger areas we use our L250 skidsteer to spread. Once we are within 2-3" of our desired heigth, manual raking is in order. The last 1", we use stone dust, which we compact, then we just scratch the very top surface (1/4" or so) for screeding. Yes we screed hard! Then the appropriate length of board is used for screeding. No bars or pipes, just the wax on wax off method, and a good eye. (just like a good plasterer) Been doing this for 13 years.

This method allows use to walk on our base with no damage. After the pavers are laid, even before the final compaction and sand, you can drive a loaded dump truck on it.

[steve lester]

we use skid steers for large jobs and mini excavators with tracked wheel barrow buggie that dump into dumpsters. we use string line and compact to 1" of finish, we use large tampers the larger the better. once grade is set we use 1" pipe to screed the sand.

[B.lock]

Anybody ever skip the screed process?
I know a guy that mechanically installed his parking lot right over his compacted stone base. His asphalt experience on a 2-ton roller made it fairly easy for him to prepare base almost to perfection. He completly skipped the screed process.
All his finished grades are right on yet I have to wonder how well it will preform longterm: without bedding material.
Just wondering if anyone has done this before?

[rgroff]

Hey "Green4me", if you find the laser guided level for your Dingo, please let me know.

[Green4Me]

surely will

[Adam Buckpitt]

I have seen a tool(looks like a bent rod) that bolts on to the bucket of skid steer and laser receiver is mounted to that. This allows you to dig out to your grade and back drag your base for screeding as well. I think it was available at laserlevels.net I will check it and reply back. Right now we screed with machine whenever possible and check with grade laser often.

[rgroff]

Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it. How big is your average job that you use a machine to do this? Most of our jobs right now are only several hundred square feet.

[eastern1]

Originally Posted by lasting impress

We use the same method for big and small areas. We mark the desired heigth in various areas, and compact our base in 2-3" lifts. In larger areas we use our L250 skidsteer to spread. Once we are within 2-3" of our desired heigth, manual raking is in order. The last 1", we use stone dust, which we compact, then we just scratch the very top surface (1/4" or so) for screeding. Yes we screed hard! Then the appropriate length of board is used for screeding. No bars or pipes, just the wax on wax off method, and a good eye. (just like a good plasterer) Been doing this for 13 years.

This method allows use to walk on our base with no damage. After the pavers are laid, even before the final compaction and sand, you can drive a loaded dump truck on it.

Stone dust is not good for laying brick at all, have none of you guys ever used coarse grain sand? Sorry to use you as a quote Impress, but I wanted to say I looked at your website and have one comment to make if you don't mind. You should look into a "pop up valve" for your water control, it is an eyesore to have the eaves running on top of the patio, not to mention it will stain the brick in no time.