[HRLand]

I'm bidding a job that includes installing a belgium block border along a driveway. The problem is we've never installed it this way before and I'm not sure how to gp about it. Anyone done this before?

[Matt Kulp]

Are you dry laying or setting in concrete? New drive or existing?

I would try and go the concrete method, you will lay the block 10 times faster and it will be strong enough to take the occasional hit by a car.

[HRLand]

I would definitely set them in concrete but wasn't sure how deep. How much of the block did you leave exposed for asphalt, 2"?

[TrickyDick]

Asphalt's usually 3". Don't know if it varies much though. You would want to talk to the paver anyway.

[Matt Kulp]

Exposure depends on preference. The job above had a 4" exposure. The trick to installing in concrete is to have the concrete wet enough to just push the block in with no effort.
This will also allow you to pour more concrete and install before it starts to set up. We usually use rebar in the concrete, as well as expansion joint every 12-14'. If the paving co. is doing a new drive, they will probably do a 2" binder and then 1" top coat. Just make sure the grades are right for the curbing and check there base before the asphalt goes in. I have worked on a couple of jobs that the pavers were not interested in details and the proper exposure was not carried through the whole drive. You should be able to pour and install 100' per day with two guys and that would include excavation, prep, pour and install. Pointing averaged about 18' per man hour.

Hope this helps.

[HRLand]

Thanks Matt, I appreciate the help. How much concrete do you put under the block? I'm thinking around 6" since there is a good chance of car tires running on it.

[Squizzy Taylor]

Originally posted by HRLand
Thanks Matt, I appreciate the help. How much concrete do you put under the block? I'm thinking around 6" since there is a good chance of car tires running on it.

We typically pour a 4 or 6" strip footer with mesh/reo and then lay the blocks on about 3/4 to 1" of mortar. This allows you to tap the blocks around with a mallet and level perfect. BTW, if the paving is something that is likely to expand or contract I make the pavement guys run an expansion strip around the blocks...just to be sure.

I know the strip footer is overkill on what is a single course wall (in effect) but it all depends on the soil type...especially if its clay that heaves in summer. Often when we are working in good clean deep sand we can just get away with 2" of mortar under the edging.

[Matt Kulp]

We usually only pour 4", 6" max, but it will also depend on what kind of grade you have to work with. Squizzy's method of mortar is a good way to do it, but we just hang strings and push the block into the concrete. The key is having the concrete wet enough. I would assume that you are planning on 4-6" of 3/4 clean or comparable clean stone for your base?

Also, just a tip, but make sure you either have the customer survey for the drive if it is new. Or, have the paving company come in and stake out the drive with grade heights. You do not want to be responsible for guessing the height and outline of the drive. We did a job for a builder once that did not want to pay a surveyor, so he just went and painted lines and told us to follow the grade of the existing slope. Well... we did just that and the engineer made the builder rip out 300' of poured curbing and replace. Luckily we had the exclusion in our contract stating the builder was responsible for the layout and the surveying. It ended up being a nice change order, but it was sad seeing all that work and block go to waste.

[HRLand]

Thanks again. We are working with the paving contractor who is a good friend of mine. He'll excavate the driveway and set the grade so we'll just need to dig the extra depth along the edges for our border. I don't think we'll use a footer. The 6" of concrete over 4" of clean stone should work fine and make setting the block easy since there is such a big difference in thickness of the blocks. Now I need to figure out how the homeowner is going to get in and out while we're there. There's close to 1000 feet to install.

[HRLand]

Thanks again. We are working with the paving contractor who is a good friend of mine. He'll excavate the driveway and set the grade so we'll just need to dig the extra depth along the edges for our border. I don't think we'll use a footer. The 6" of concrete over 4" of clean stone should work fine and make setting the block easy since there is such a big difference in thickness of the blocks. Now I need to figure out how the homeowner is going to get in and out while we're there. There's close to 1000 feet to install.

[HRLand]

Now we're discussing going with a paver border instead of the block. What do you think about setting them the same way. They want to go with techo-bloc olympia, a 3.125" paver.

[Matt Kulp]

I would go with the same method for best results. But, if you are going for the pavers being flush with the pavement you could just install as per vehicular application specs and pave up to them. The second method would be much more cost effective if they are trying to shave cost's. We normally just lay restraint on both sides and let the black top be installed right over top of the restraint.