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02-08-2007, 05:09 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Sep 2006
USDA
Posts: 12
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Natural Stone Veneer
Does anyone have any advice for constructing stone veneered walls. I've seen on tv, glimpes of how to do these but I'm looking for more detailed information on how to construct them. The way I've seen them built is that a footing is poured, a concrete block wall is then built, then faced with stone. Is that set up sturdy in the long run? Do the holes in the block wall need to be filled with rebar and concrete? I live in a part of the country that has freeze/thaw cycles. Should wire mesh be achored to the block wall then the stone mortared over that? I'd like to learn how to to these wall systems so any info would be appeciated.
Josh
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02-09-2007, 09:39 AM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Appleton, Wisconsin
USDA Zone 10
Posts: 10
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Josh;
You are on the right track. We have plenty of frost here in Wisconsin. I have done this exact thing at my residence 3 years ago. I poured a concrete footing approx. 12" thick and laid up a concrete block pillar. I then attached the stone with mortor directly to the concrete block. I then capped the pillar with a square pillar cap made of stone. The important thing is to have every joint filled tight with mortor and the capp properly attached with mortor. This will prevent water from getting in. Sealing the entire project with a concrete sealer would also help. I have seen this application done here in WI many times and never heard of any problems. The company I work for manufactures concrete products and sells these types of stone veneers.I have talked to the stone reps. on this same subject, and they all have given their support with this application. You can go to www.nsvi.com or www.culturedstone.com for detailed installation drawings.
Hope this helps.
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02-09-2007, 10:16 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 8,243
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Here are some pics of some work we did - this pic is as we're partially constructed. We did as Bunky mentions, concrete footing, block walls (rebar reinforced), then we applied a concrete sealer (Bunky - what's the name of that stuff?) that is supposed to help the scratch coat bond to the blocks. Scratch coat right on the blocks, then up goes the veneer.
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02-09-2007, 10:16 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 8,243
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And here it is a short time later, being tested. 
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02-09-2007, 10:22 AM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Appleton, Wisconsin
USDA Zone 10
Posts: 10
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Jeff;
There are anumber of companies that manufacture that product, so I can not give you company name. It is a bonding agent. They use it to bond concrete products together. I know that plastering companies use it when plastering over existing walls. It can be purchased at a building supply center, or a concrete supply company. A lot of times it comes in liquid form and you roll/brush it over the surface before you apply the scratch coat.
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02-09-2007, 10:36 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 8,243
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Why don't you whisper one of the names in my ear. I won't tell anyone. 
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02-09-2007, 10:44 AM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Appleton, Wisconsin
USDA Zone 10
Posts: 10
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We carry Tamms Aro 7-T. That seems to work extremely well. Tamms is the manufacturing company. The website is www.tamms.com
I hope I did not say this too loud. :~)
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02-09-2007, 06:45 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Sep 2006
USDA
Posts: 12
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Thanks guys. This info helps. Now I just need a place to practice...lol
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02-15-2007, 08:11 PM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: St. louis mo
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 186
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Quote:
Originally posted by naturaljosh
Thanks guys. This info helps. Now I just need a place to practice...lol
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Go about 2-3 hours northwest to Eureka MO by Sixflags and you can practice here.  I need to learn the process myself. Goodluck!
__________________
Keith Neustaedter
St.louis Ponds and Waterfalls
"We bring life to your backyard"
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02-17-2007, 03:52 PM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Feb 2006
USDA
Posts: 16
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Howdy,
Jeff, what are the legal issues with doing mortared work in Wisconsin? Does a contractor need to be registered or certified as a mason to do exterior work like this? Most likely we would sub this kind of work out but I too, would be interested in trying it at home to see if it might be a worthwhile service to offer-
thanks- JEJ
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02-17-2007, 11:09 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 8,243
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I'm not aware of any licensing required by the state, but to be safe, you should check for yourself.
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02-21-2007, 10:35 PM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 233
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jeff, nice bbq. did you create the plans for that thing, or procure them elsewhere? did you use steel lintels over that door opening there?
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03-12-2007, 11:56 AM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
USDA Zone 6
Posts: 518
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I've been thinking about this lately also. I would like to build some pillars at the sides of my driveway, using block and cultured stone. The only part that I'm not sure of is the footing. Here in NJ we're supposed tro go 36" but is that the bottom of the footing? Also, if you use a 12" pad does that mean your setting block in a 24" hole? That seems like a real PITA.
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03-12-2007, 12:01 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Sep 2005
USDA
Posts: 338
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HR- 36inches is to the top of the footing, atleast in every case i have seen. If your doing a 24x24 pillar, i'd do a 3x3 footing, so you have room to work. Then you have to run the block up, then do whatever finish you want. Dig the hole alittle bigger if you want more room to work.
I am designing a job right now were i got to do 8-10 pillar.
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