[Stonehenge]

Ok, I'm cringing as I'm typing this. We don't do decks, but I want to plunge into them. So I'm working on a design that includes a deck. Nothing fancy, a square with 45 degree corners, a set of steps that will take a 90 degree turn partway down (covering 8 vertical feet), and a second set of steps totaling about 16" vertically. Total square footage of the deck surface will be roughly 200.

As this is brand new to me, and I don't really have the time to go price out all the lumber, I'm wondering if someone can give me a quick and dirty formula for a starter deck. I can hone the formula/price from there after we complete that first one, I just don't want to lose my tail on this one.

Thanks in advance (and don't mind my double hypocrisy from the earlier thread. Hey, does one hypocrisy cancel out the second ?)

[diginahole]

No quick and dirty formula here but I did a little figuring and here is what I come up with. I haven't checked lumber prices this season but if a 2 x 6 goes for $1.20 the pressure treated lumber should cost roughly $ 1500 including the steps and railings. Two guys should be able to build this in 2 days (36-40 hrs) if you don't get fancy. Make the time to check your lumber prices !!!!

Remember working 8' above the ground takes a lot longer than at ground level !!

If I were to ball park this for a prospect I'd say about $35- 3900. Not far off where I'd be for pavers in a back yard with a few steps (not 15 mind you). Then I'd charge them $75 to draw a plan and quote a firm number.

[Stonehenge]

Part of the deck will be little more than a foot off the ground, but the drop off is quick...

Thanks for the help. I'm going to just stick your number into my bid and worry about the lumber price if/when I get the work. The project includes two fieldstone boulder walls, 50'x5' and 50'x3' respectively, a paver patio, walk, and some regrading and reseeding. Should be a nice one if we get it.

[PSUscaper]

Hello,

Don't forget about getting the footings inspected if needed.....that can always be a pain in the butt. I've been on jobs where the inspector can't get there for a few days and screw the whole scheduling up.

Also check the codes for the steps........We have certain townships that require a landing after every four steps.......could change the whole design if you have codes such as this.

Also, make sure you/client get the proper building permit if required. Most townships around here want a permit for just about any kind of construction project, from sheds, decks, etec..

steve

[Stonehenge]

Ok - what about footings? I've seen posts set into holes below frost line filled with gravel, filled with concrete, or just a concrete footing below the frost line with anchors/fasteners connecting the posts to the footing.

Opinions?

[diginahole]

12" sonotube below the frost line. Posts attached above grade with brackets that provide an air space between post and concrete. Fill around the sonotubes with free draining gravel.

Advantages: A large bearing surface on the soil reduces posts from settling into the ground. Posts wont rot, heave and are simple to align. The later being most important with complicated designs where the posts are visible.

Low level decks are often just floated on top of the ground with the posts bearing on a 24 x 24 patio slab. When floating a deck you don't fasten it to the house.

[Stonehenge]

What about material specs? Do you specify the lumber?

[diginahole]

The client chooses the species, I spec the dimensions.

[Bladewizard]

All of the above hold true when buildin a deck attttached to the structure....It is consider a permanent fixture and proper permits and specs are needed. In most cases, a framing inspection is need before you deck...Your main post should rest on top of concrete footers according to code....We require Hurricane strapping here in NJ....

[Bladewizard]

Oh Yea.....I am not sure on pricing in your area.......I work with anywhere from $15 to $25 a sqft......You will learn to adjust pricing depending on elevations and stairs and also material type.......

[Stonehenge]

Yeah, I can live with not making much on the first few projects - I just don't want my clock cleaned because I didn't account for this or that.

Thanks for the info.

[zackkcaz]

hey guys, Im just looking for advice on pricing for decks and fences. Anything you guys could help with is greately appreciated. A big competitor of ours, specializes in complete backyard landscaping, something we want to be known for.
For decks they charge:
trex composite decking: 60-90$/square foot
Platinum cedar decks: 50-90$/ square foot
Gold cedar decks: 40-70$/ square foot
Silver cedar decks: 30-60$/ square foot
Bronze cedar decks: 25-50$ square foot
Do you have any idea for pricing of decorative features like arbours, or beams and that sort of thing?
What do you charge for railings? in pvc, iron
for fences they charge:
pvc- 40-60$/linear foot
Iron- 40-60$/ linear foot
Chain link- 15-22$/ linear foot
Wood- 40-60$/linear foot

what do you guys think?

[Stonehenge]

Maybe it's that market, but wow - those prices are up there. A 250 sqft Trex deck for $22K? I'd be the fattest deck builder in town, because I'd never get out of my chair to build any of 'em.

But if that's what the costs dictate prices to be in your area, then my info on arbors and pergolas won't be of much value. Besides, I don't price our pergolas and arbors by sqft. I price out the materials, any mill work that needs to be done, hardware and concrete, and the labor to put it all together, and that's our price. Per sqft just doesn't seem to fit for an arbor or pergola.

[Fine Edge]

It depends on the craftmanship also. Some companies can charge quite a bit more for decking and fences because of their quality and the amount of experienced carpenters on their crews. You really can't afford to make too many mistakes with the expensive woods.
The wood fences seems really high but then again, what exactly are they quoting?
To try and match your competitors rates seems like suicide. You really need to figure out your own rates.

[jamesn162]

i can put my two sents in here because i am just finishing up 3 composite stair cases and a 12x15 deck....with 3 rockwood wall systems 20x7, 15x5, and 20x8 and boy did i have a problem with this one...during the excavation i found an old seasonal water supply, had to reconfigure the drainage for the entire project, delt with the slowest inspector in the world, bid the job short 4 sections of rail at 250 a section because my carpenter had the measurment of a a stair case wrong.....and worst of all i have had a terrible time with the weather......10in of snow 3 in of rain in 7 days.....i dont know what way to look at the job......but anyways all i can say is that be sure your materials are tooo the T because if they are not it will hurt ur bottom line......sharpen ur pencil on this one i wish i did.