[Barry]

Does anyone have experience installing thin pavers over concrete with success in a freeze/thaw zone?? I have, over the years been approached to bid these projects and they scare the hell out of me. I have been warned about doing them over existing cracked concrete, and the problems that are involved. Seems to be money in it..........just not wanting the callbacks from it "popping" in the spring.

[neversatisfiedj]

I've got one coming up - do not warranty that install.

[Barry]

why would you do something you could or would not warranty?? I guess that's the reason I don't take it in the first place. Am looking for someone to assist in how it is they are actually installed. I have heard several suggestions, one of them involving "Gorilla glue" used on the risers. Just have never....and want to get some advice.............

[neversatisfiedj]

Why would I warranty a base that I did not prepare ? I take all work given to me. I give my customer's what THEY want . Even if it isn't the way I would handle a situation.

[neversatisfiedj]

ICPI suggests using a 3 1/8 paver for soldier course glued down with expandable glue with 12" filter fabric between. The 3/4" sand in field with standard 2 3/8 pavers.

[Barry]

From my perspective, they look to me for sound construction advice. We are supposed to be the professionals, right? I don't do the "hit and run" approach. I'm looking for a repeat customer, not someone to badmouth me as soon as the project goes sour. I guess your coming from an angle I cannot relate with. I'm here to do whats best for them.........NOT "what they want".

[Barry]

Anyone else have anything for me?

[Stonehenge]

Barry - Look through this thread about mortar and brick. It should answer a lot of your questions.

That being said, if this is a cracked up piece of concrete, the only options I'd pursue would start with removal of the slab. Wouldn't touch the project otherwise.

[pineapple]

My mason does this with brick and concrete pavers over concrete.

They glue them on with Liquid Nails or similar product with good success.

Call them:

A-1
(847) 824-5991

[ckcland]

Removal should not be a big deal, worth the $500 or so additional as insurance. I never go over existing concrete except on a stoop overlay, in that case, I glue border with liquid nails then inlay and sand. Never had a problem.

[Barry]

Land, this is on a stoop. One of the other problems I have encountered is that the concrete is flush with the kickplate of the door..........I suppose the only way to get it bricked is to take off the whole stoop ( 4" thick ) . Do I do a thin ( inch or so ) base of concrete to get it back up to kickplate height? The whole liquid nails thing makes sense. I just want it to be the right height without "tripping" into the doorway because of a "lip".

Thanks!