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03-16-2006, 07:50 AM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 189
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Concrete Adhesive w/Bluestone
hey guys - hope everyone's busy as a one-legged man in an *ss kicking contest....
i am looking at doing a multi-level, ashlar bluestone patio. for the riser portions, i am wanting to use a pisa II block or equivalent (client does not have the budget for footings, concrete, etc.), but we are paving the patio w/bluestone. instead of using conc adhesive to glue on copings as in a standard application, can i use adhesive to glue the bluestone to the pisa II as coping instead? maybe score the uderside of the stone so it would take a bit better?
thanks,
jim
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03-16-2006, 08:26 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Charlotte, Vt
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 128
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I have done that sort of thing with mortar. And we have laid bluestone on a concrete pad with Kerabond and Keralastic. Basically that is a latex based mortar.
When we build srw (once) we glued the 2nd course to the base course and the cap stones to the top course with "SRW" brand retaining wall and paver adhesive.
Hope that helps.
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03-16-2006, 09:00 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Mar 2003
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 409
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I see two advantages to mortar. First it will be easier to compensate for variations in thickness if you use mortar, and second mortar will grab better than glue on the rough surface of bluestone.
__________________
Facts just twist the truth around
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03-16-2006, 09:05 PM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 189
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true. but without a full footer, mortar will crack i believe. i am in michigan.
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03-16-2006, 09:43 PM
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Seedling
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
USDA Zone 6
Posts: 97
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If you're talking about dimensional bluestone, (as opposed to irregular natural stone), then I don't see why an adhesive wouldn't work.
If the stone is irregular, meaning that it has high and low spots, (cleft), then adhesive would be difficult to use and I would go with mortar.
-JP
__________________
Any activity becomes creative when the doer cares about doing it right,
or doing it better.
- John Updike
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03-16-2006, 10:01 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Charlotte, Vt
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 128
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Try that kerabond kerlastic. It is recommended because it has the ability to move just enough. When it is all set up you can kind of tell that it isn't brittle like mortar is.
Fakie99, nice website BTW.
Last edited by Nathaniel Carr : 03-16-2006 at 10:05 PM.
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03-17-2006, 09:45 AM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 189
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thanks nathaniel - by the way, how easy is this keralast stuff to come by? i don't think i've heard of it before.
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03-17-2006, 09:55 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Charlotte, Vt
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 128
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I get it from the stone yard I go to. Maybe a block dealer or wet masonry supply house. It shouldn't be to hard to find in your area.
Coincidentally my In-laws live in Grosse Pointe, and my wife's best friend lives in Ann Arbor. You are probably just thawing out. Our days are only topping out in the 30's.
Good Luck.
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03-19-2006, 04:54 PM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 189
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yep - we're just thawing out - still a foot of snow in northern mi. i would really like to get to work ASAFP if you know what i mean. thanks for the info....
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