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12-15-2005, 07:59 AM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 238
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i'm putting together a qote for a raised paver patio (avg. 16" above grade). the original intent was to have a seating wall at the perimeter of the patio (20" above the paver level). when i build raised patios with walls above the paver height, i usually try to use a double-sided block so i can build the base for the patio, then just keep going up with the block to create the wall (i.e. the patio base and seating wall are seamless (see pic)). but the customer wants to use unilock dimensional for the seating wall. i hesitate to use this product to build the patio base as it really is not a retaining wall product - no lip or ridges to hold higher courses, etc.
so, how would it look to build the raised patio like normal (with country manor, pisa II, etc.) then build the seating wall separately on top of the copings of the patio base? not sure how this would turn out.....
any thoughts?
jim
sorry, can't attach pics - here are the links:
patio design
seating wall
Last edited by fakie99 : 12-15-2005 at 08:03 AM.
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12-15-2005, 08:44 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
Posts: 8,299
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Use Unilock Quarry Stone - same look, same colors, allows you to make curves without cutting, and is two-sided, and has a connection system you're after.
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12-15-2005, 08:57 AM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 238
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but quarry stone isn't available here in mi....
jim
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12-15-2005, 04:09 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Northern VA
USDA Zone 7
Posts: 1,460
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How about looking at AnchorWall or E P Henry or Europa? All have double-sided stone. You'll get a much better look by using the same block on the entire wall.
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12-15-2005, 04:16 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Apr 2003
USDA
Posts: 179
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Hi Jim
You should be okay to construct the whole thing (wall/seating) out of Brussels dimentional, attached pic is the same type of product
I poured a strip footing then mortered the bottom course on, then used the PL Premium to fasten the stones - the upper patio lever drains well with the 3/4 clear base so there is ery little push on the wall, the key was the footing considering our wall seat + wall was 4' in places, but only had max 16" different in base elevation
~ian
__________________
~ian
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12-15-2005, 05:40 PM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 238
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that's a great looking patio.
i don't know - it makes me nervous to use brussels dimensional stone - or any other smooth block with no pins, lip, etc. - for anyhting "structural" for some reason....
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12-15-2005, 06:02 PM
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GTX Advisor
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 1,572
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If you really need to fasten the wall with mechanical means you can drill hole thru the block and use re-bar to hold them in place.
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12-16-2005, 12:08 AM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Jan 2005
USDA
Posts: 17
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If available check out Techo Bloc. They make 2 wall blocks that are identical except one is doublesided. In the attached pic, the project is very similar to yours and we used the single sided block on the the below grade portion and the doublesided for the sitting wall.
Nick
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12-16-2005, 09:10 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
USDA
Posts: 1,882
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I've had great success using Keystone Country Manor. Pre radioused, pinned system. Next year the pins will only be 3.5" deep rather than 5".
__________________
Bill Schwab
In the year 1491, if the Naturescape Landscape Company did the site work in Pisa, Italy, they would not be calling it the "leaning" tower.
Encinitas, Ca. 92024
www.naturescapelandscape.com
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12-19-2005, 08:03 AM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Feb 2005
USDA
Posts: 158
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ianc no sand under pavers ? I have seen guys do that but it must be hard to level huh?
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12-19-2005, 08:16 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Apr 2003
USDA
Posts: 179
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there was some fines (stone dust) used for leveling pavers, the 3/4 made up the majority of the base because we had to remove extensive topsoil and build back up to grade.
sand is a bad word around these parts
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~ian
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12-19-2005, 10:35 AM
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Acorn
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Join Date: Sep 2004
USDA
Posts: 25
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fakie99 - Try using Versa-Lok. Available in MI. Able to do SRW and free standing / seat height wall with the same units (double sided as needed). Not to mention you can easily incoropate columns into your project all using the same block. Check out this link: www.versa-lok.com
Good luck - raised patio's are the thing!!!!
__________________
Two primary choices in life:
To accept conditions as they exist, OR
Accept the responsibility for changing them.
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12-19-2005, 10:47 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
USDA
Posts: 1,882
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I wanted to add one thing. If you do alot of double sided walls, or raised patios, it would behoove you to invest the $4,500.00 for a 20" saw. I built our first two, so we had a saw we did not need to use a machine to move around like other 20" saws, but lemme tell you. Having the ability to saw completely through up to an 8" block with one perfect 90° and taking 10 seconds to cut what typically takes 5 minutes, assuming you align both cuts perefectly, shaves time off the jobs.
The blades are costly, dancing around the $300.00 mark, you need a minimum of 14 horsepower, and the saw bed has to be larger. You will never regret the larger saw if and or when you gain the need to own one.
__________________
Bill Schwab
In the year 1491, if the Naturescape Landscape Company did the site work in Pisa, Italy, they would not be calling it the "leaning" tower.
Encinitas, Ca. 92024
www.naturescapelandscape.com
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12-19-2005, 11:01 AM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Feb 2005
USDA
Posts: 158
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I get so confused in this field. ICPI says to use masonry sand to "lock" pavers together. I guess everyone has their own techniques.
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12-19-2005, 05:12 PM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Feb 2004
USDA Zone 5
Posts: 712
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Bill, I was looking into a 20"saw for just that purpose. Have any recommendations? In the past I always bought MK but the last 14" gas saw I bought from them had one of it's shafts go to crap after 50 hours. I saw a company named Edco makes them. But I'm in the dark otherwise.
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