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01-04-2005, 01:16 PM
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Gold Oak Network Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
USDA Zone 6
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Pergola on patio
I'm working on a plan for my own backyard and my wife wants a pergola. It would only cover a portion of the patio so the posts would have to be on the patio itself. Would they need to be below the actual surface of the pavers or can they be secured to the top of them?
Pictures would be very helpful since I've never done this before.
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01-04-2005, 06:26 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
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I sunk and cemented 4x4 p/t posts into the ground, then built slightly larger cedar sleeves that slipped over and tacked into the posts, made the sleeves in two pieces the lower section was furred out to 10"x10" and upper was 6"x6" done in clear cedar. the pergola roof and back lattic screen was built using good construction cedar.
~ian
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~ian
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01-04-2005, 06:37 PM
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Here I sunk and cemented 6x6 p/t posts then dressed them with clear cedar, not my best choice the p/t twisted over time and I had to go with the loose sleeve approach because it left space for twisting without too much distortion.
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~ian
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01-04-2005, 07:09 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
USDA Zone 4
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Ian - that first one is gorgeous!
Question - did you miter the corners when you dressed those 4x4 posts? If so - quick run down a table saw or what?
Also, the screen in the first pic - what lumber was that constructed of? Was it larger lumber ripped to a smaller size?
HR, to answer your question - if you simply place the arbor on the patio, it will be movable like any other piece of patio furniture, and will also be much more prone to warping. You'll either need to pour footings and install a bracket to connect each post to, or you'll just put each post in the ground and pout concrete around it.
Either way, you should go below the frost line - here it's 42".
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01-04-2005, 07:14 PM
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on the pergola....
-yes I did mitre the board edges for the post sleeves.
-for the lattic panel in the background, I ripped down 1x6 construction cedar and then used spacers for the squares and nailed from the back, was made on the workbench and put up as one unit.
~ian
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~ian
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01-04-2005, 10:49 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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To make secure foundations, dig a 2x2 fotting to the depth of your frost line, I believe Jersey is 32". Pour concrete and install post brackets so you can set the wood on top of the concrete. The lime in concrete will cause the support posts to rot prematurely just above the concrete line. Or if you really wanna be trick, set your footings, and place 2 pieces of #3 rebar in the center, 8" apart. Take 8x12x12 block and run them up the the hieght you need. You can use 8x12x12, then size down to 8x8x8 if you want. For a total custom look, use Country Manor bottoms and cut them around the support posts. You can stucco the sides or bond face brick to it. You can order the timbers with corbeled ends, you will have to find a good old fashioned lumber yard to do so. Because of the termite issue, all of our patio covers are stained with solid colors before installation.
Ianc, that pergola looks awesome!
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Bill Schwab
In the year 1491, if the Naturescape Landscape Company did the site work in Pisa, Italy, they would not be calling it the "leaning" tower.
Encinitas, Ca. 92024
www.naturescapelandscape.com
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01-04-2005, 11:32 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Northern VA
USDA Zone 7
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I agree that a concrete footing is necessary for stability.
The posts can be sleeved with round tuscan columns made of a fiberglass composite. Look at this site for more ideas:
http://www.finehouse.net/
Ian: Great looking projects, as usual.
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01-05-2005, 07:55 AM
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I have been experimenting with architectural Styrofoam, the posts in the picture are fluted ridged Styrofoam that has multiple layers of acrylic primer and has a faux paint finish applied.
The Styrofoam is t&g lengthways so the two pieces snap into place around any sized post, in this case I had steel posts with a top and bottom flange welded on - this bolted to the roof structure,
The Styrofoam columns simply slipped around the posts after the roof was installed, when it was installed at the clients we poured a 10” concrete sono-tubes and cinch bolted the steel flange to the concrete
There are lots of column design profiles cost $60 per post unfinished, can’t build them for that $$
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~ian
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01-05-2005, 08:08 AM
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HRLand.
Could you not have two posts on the patio and two posts in the surrounding garden, so the pergola roof covers the patio and some of the garden, this way you are not loosing valuable patio space with 4 posts, the first pic the pavers only extend in 2/3rds of the roof area, that back posts with lattice panel are installed in a raised planter surrounded by garden.
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~ian
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01-05-2005, 09:19 AM
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Great looking work ianc. Instead of four posts on the patio I was wondering if the pergola can be attached to the house. Is this possible? I don't know if it makes a difference as far as the footings but this would be a raised patio. I haven't measured everything yet but I would guess the height will be about 20".
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01-05-2005, 10:29 AM
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Gold Oak Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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If you attach to the house, what we do is install a #1 Douglas fir header board, and lage bolt with 6"x1/2" lags set on a staggered 8"pattern , countersunk into the wall studs. You can use joist hangers to hold the rafters, or, you can notch another 2x12 to fit the rafters then use 3" lags into the first header. Then just build your supports the way you see fit.
As soon as you attach to a house, keep in mind you will defintiely be subject to permits. The building department will have guidelines on bacis specs, beam loads and so fourth that have to be followed.
Ian that stuff you are doing is awesome!
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Bill Schwab
In the year 1491, if the Naturescape Landscape Company did the site work in Pisa, Italy, they would not be calling it the "leaning" tower.
Encinitas, Ca. 92024
www.naturescapelandscape.com
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01-05-2005, 11:03 AM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Apr 2004
USDA
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Great pics both on this site and the one Lanelle suggested. I have a spot just one these in an upcoming project this Spring. I may have them look at some of these shots if that is possible ianc? Give them some idea of what is possible around thier pool. I still haven't decided on cedar or painted white. I know the look I want and just am not sure about the painted and maintenance
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Julie
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01-05-2005, 11:16 AM
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Why not go with white stain instead of paint? It doesn't last as long, but doesn't peel or have to be stripped before recoating. I'd brush for a week rather than strip paint for a day!
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01-05-2005, 11:52 AM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Good idea I will look at doing that also.
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Julie
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01-05-2005, 01:07 PM
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Sapling
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Join Date: Mar 2004
USDA
Posts: 289
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Another option is to pour a concrete pier and place a galvanized metal post base in the wet mix. After the concrete has cured bolt the post to the base. I like the fact that the end grain can be slightly raised off the patio preventing any moisture from ever entering the post.
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